Eating street in Singapore

Eating street in Singapore

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Singapore's beloved hawker industry faces an uncertain future with a wave of chef retirements imminent, raising questions about who will cook the city state's signature street-food delights.

There are over 100 hawker centres and 6,000 stalls in Singapore, run mainly by ageing chefs, with people from all sections of society attracted to the tasty multi-ethnic meals that cost as little as S$2.80 ($2).

But the tough working conditions in the small, basic kitchens and low profits have led many new chefs to look to larger, modern restaurants for bigger revenues.

. Singapore, SINGAPORE. Reuters/Edgar Su

Some experienced hawker sellers in Singapore believe the younger generation don't have what it takes to succeed in the trade.

Alex See runs a Fried Hokkien Mee (fried noodles) stall in East Coast with his 33-year-old daughter.

"Young people come and go, they are not serious about learning," he said.

. Singapore, SINGAPORE. Reuters/Edgar Su

"When I was helping my father at the age of 16, I asked him so many questions everyday to learn so that I can one day beat him at it. I do not think I have beaten my old man yet, it's a tie."

. Singapore, SINGAPORE. Reuters/Edgar Su

Sumosundram Moghan makes Roti Prata, a fried pancake, at his stall but his staff, despite extensive training, still struggle to replicate his standards.

"The boss must do it - everyone can make the same dough but the way I flip my prata gives it the crispy standard," he said.

. Singapore, SINGAPORE. Reuters/Edgar Su

"My assistant has been learning for eight years, but still not doing the way I want it."

. Singapore, SINGAPORE. Reuters/Edgar Su

Hawker Lim Swee Heng has spent many years trying to perfect his spicy laksa noodle soup at his East Coast stall, Roxy Laksa.

. Singapore, SINGAPORE. Reuters/Edgar Su

"It takes years to get the right balance to the broth, to make it thick just add coconut, to make it watery just add water, but to go in-between, to get that right balance - that's the hard work of my dish."

. Singapore, SINGAPORE. Reuters/Edgar Su

Wee Phong Sai has been making handmade fishball noodle soup for almost 40 years at Ghim Moh food market but has no obvious successor to take over.

. Singapore, SINGAPORE. Reuters/Edgar Su

"To retire? These are two words that I will not utter," he said.

. Singapore, SINGAPORE. Reuters/Edgar Su

Last month, two Singapore hawkers became the first street food sellers in the world to be awarded a prestigious Michelin star. For one, success will not mean increased prices.

Chan was awarded a Michelin star for his soya sauce chicken at Chinatown food centre stall.

. Singapore, SINGAPORE. Reuters/Edgar Su

"The Michelin star came to me as a surprise, I never expected that hawker food will win such an award," he said.

"But with the Michelin star comes added responsibility, to maintain the standard of the dish and to keep the star...but I will not raise prices, at the end, its the customer that matters."

. Singapore, SINGAPORE. Reuters/Edgar Su

Some young hawkers are emerging, though. Keen to keep family traditions alive.

Lim runs Balesteir Road Hoover Rojak. Rojak is a traditional Malay mixed fruit and vegetable salad.

Lim gave up a sales job to take over the stall from his father and does his best to repeat the methods learnt.

. Singapore, SINGAPORE. Reuters/Edgar Su

"Many of hawkers here at this food centre... told me to find something better outside and not be a hawker because its very hard work, long hours and very little rest," he said.

"But I took over my father three years ago because he was getting old. I do everything exactly he does, including how I arrange my utensils."

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Slideshow

A stall helper mends a satay stand at Lau Pa Sat food centre.
. Singapore, SINGAPORE. Reuters/Edgar Su

A stall helper mends a satay stand at Lau Pa Sat food centre.

A plate of $5 satay (skewered meat).
. Singapore, SINGAPORE. Reuters/Edgar Su

A plate of $5 satay (skewered meat).

A hawker "pulls" tea at his Teh Tarik stall at Lau Pa Sat food centre.
. Singapore, SINGAPORE. Reuters/Edgar Su

A hawker "pulls" tea at his Teh Tarik stall at Lau Pa Sat food centre.

A cup of $1.10 teh tarik (pulled tea).
. Singapore, SINGAPORE. Reuters/Edgar Su

A cup of $1.10 teh tarik (pulled tea).

A stall helper cooks as people queue for Michelin-starred bak chor mee (mince pork noodles) at Hill Street Tai Hwa Pork Noodles stall.
. Singapore, SINGAPORE. Reuters/Edgar Su

A stall helper cooks as people queue for Michelin-starred bak chor mee (mince pork noodles) at Hill Street Tai Hwa Pork Noodles stall.

A bowl of $3.70 bak chor mee (mince pork noodles).
. Singapore, SINGAPORE. Reuters/Edgar Su

A bowl of $3.70 bak chor mee (mince pork noodles).

"Although nasi lemak is not an expensive food, the quality of the ingredients must be good, so customers come back," said Din Mohammad Rasheed, 50, at Changi Famous Nasi Lemak stall at Changi Village Food Center.
. Singapore, SINGAPORE. Reuters/Edgar Su

"Although nasi lemak is not an expensive food, the quality of the ingredients must be good, so customers come back," said Din Mohammad Rasheed, 50, at Changi Famous Nasi Lemak stall at Changi Village Food Center.

A plate of $2.60 nasi lemak.
. Singapore, SINGAPORE. Reuters/Edgar Su

A plate of $2.60 nasi lemak.

"Me and my husband have been here for 39 years, and ice kachang has changed so much over the years. We used to just have shaved ice and syrup, but these days we keep up the trend by adding toppings like mango, peanuts and durian. The old like the original but young people like to try new flavours," said Chan Lay Choo, 62, at Golden Swallow Dessert stall at Ghim Moh Food Centre.
. Singapore, SINGAPORE. Reuters/Edgar Su

"Me and my husband have been here for 39 years, and ice kachang has changed so much over the years. We used to just have shaved ice and syrup, but these days we keep up the trend by adding toppings like mango, peanuts and durian. The old like the original but young people like to try new flavours," said Chan Lay Choo, 62, at Golden Swallow Dessert stall at Ghim Moh Food Centre.

A bowl of $1.50 ice kachang (shaved ice dessert).
. Singapore, SINGAPORE. Reuters/Edgar Su

A bowl of $1.50 ice kachang (shaved ice dessert).

People queue for food at Amoy food centre.
. Singapore, SINGAPORE. Reuters/Edgar Su

People queue for food at Amoy food centre.

Lau Pa Sat food centre.
. Singapore, SINGAPORE. Reuters/Edgar Su

Lau Pa Sat food centre.