Haiti's brides beat hurricanes, power cuts and protests to wed in style

Haiti's brides beat hurricanes, power cuts and protests to wed in style

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As anti-government protesters in Haiti's capital blocked principal roads and clashed with police last year, Stanley Joseph and Daphne Gerard (below) used the city's winding and potholed backroads to make it to church for their wedding, decked out in all their finery.

. Port au Prince, Haiti. Reuters/Valerie Baeriswyl
Stanley Joseph, who works as a driver for an NGO, tries to remove Daphne Gerard's garter, as their bridesmaids look on, during a wedding game in Port au Prince.

The bride had wondered if they should postpone their big day when it became clear a majority of their guests would not make it, due to the violent unrest that had gripped Port-au-Prince for months.

But they had spent a lot of money and time planning.

Joseph, 36, felt they could make it work, although that meant chartering a plane to bring Gerard's parents up from the country's south-east.

. Port au Prince, Haiti. Reuters/Valerie Baeriswyl
Boys of honour Victor Rulx Guilbert, 25, Lucien Hasting, 27, Jean Louis Fabrice Guerlens, 25, and Edouard Wonder, 27, sit together at Joseph and Gerard's wedding.

Such is Haiti, where couples often have to surmount seemingly endless obstacles, from unrest and hurricanes to power outages and, above all, poverty, to get wed.

But wed they do, and in style.

"We always have problems in Haiti. You can't wait. You just have to get on and overcome them," said Joseph, who wore a silver suit and lilac tie and boutonniere, matching the bridesmaids' lilac dresses. "I was stressed but happy."

. Delmas, Haiti. Reuters/Valerie Baeriswyl
Groom Julio and his bride Dalina, who met at university, wait for their guests to arrive.

Marriage is not as widespread in Haiti as in other Western countries, given the long-standing creole tradition of 'plasaj,' an informal marital relationship that is common in rural areas but not legally recognized.

Yet marriage has greater prestige and is particularly favored by Haiti's wealthier, cosmopolitan urbanites, according to Haitian sociologist Tamas Jean Pierre - not least because it is recognized abroad.

. Petion Ville, Haiti. Reuters/Valerie Baeriswyl
. Petion Ville, Haiti. Reuters/Valerie Baeriswyl

Left: Bride Johanne Jean breastfeeds her son at a hotel paid for by her Haitian cousin who lives in the U.S,.
Right: A milk bottle is chilled in an ice bucket with a bottle of champagne.

Protestant churchgoing communities also favor marriage, especially if a couple is expecting a child. Some religious schools will only accept pupils if their parents can provide a marriage certificate.

"Often the reverend himself puts pressure on the couple, saying it is the will of God, which you cannot disobey," said Haitian ethnologist Isaac Ducléon.

Plasaj does not grant rights such as child support in the event of separation, or a share of a partner's estate if they die.

"I fell pregnant and, as we are both churchgoers, we decided to get married," said Johanne Jean, 38, who wed one month after giving birth, nursing her baby throughout the day.

. Mariani, Haiti. Reuters/Valerie Baeriswyl
Brides Roselene Saint Juste and Mireille Mathurin, who got married in a joint wedding ceremony to cousins Sony Vernet and Herve Vernet pose at church in Mariani.

SHINDIG ON A SHOESTRING

Still, in a country where more than half the population lives under the poverty line of $2.41 per day, only the wealthiest of Haitian couples can afford the full shebang of a wedding ceremony, lavish dinner reception, and honeymoon.

Most have to get creative. Sometimes multiple couples get married at the same time to save on church fees.

. Carrefour, Haiti. Reuters/Valerie Baeriswyl
Wedding guests squabble by the buffet table as they help themselves to food.

They might skip the reception or, in the countryside, offer a simple meal of bread, fried plantains, rice and coffee. Sometimes, the whole village might provide food. Disputes can occur when there is not enough for all those who turn up, or when guests try to take home dishes or drinks.

Usually the cake is not big enough for everyone to have a piece so it is put on display during the wedding and consumed later on at home by the couple and their nearest and dearest.

. Baie de Henne, Haiti. Reuters/Valerie Baeriswyl
A pregnant bride and her groom travel by motorbike to their reception after getting married in a double wedding ceremony in Baie de Henne.

The couple may hire a pickup truck or motorbike taxis for the day to ferry people around. Or they may just walk to church, sweating up and down hills in their wedding clothes in the tropical heat.

Despite tight pursestrings, the showiness of the ceremony is the one element of the Haitian wedding that never lacks.

. Bouli, Haiti. Reuters/Valerie Baeriswyl
Bride Louimene Louis, 25, sits next to her cousin Midene Belantine,14, referred to in Creole as a ‘queteuse’ who helps the bride on her wedding day in Bouli.

"It's partly about expressing your social status," said Jean Pierre. "Even the poorest women make an effort to have a beautiful wedding, which for them means a big eye-catching procession that people will talk about for a long time."

The bridal procession in church can include friends playing the part of a king and queen, while the bridesmaids and groomsmen often dress so similarly to the bride and groom that it can be difficult to define, from outside, who is actually getting wed.

. Carrefour, Haiti. Reuters/Valerie Baeriswyl
Mirla-Samuelle Pierre puts on a tiara as she gets ready for her wedding in Carrefour.

DIASPORIC SUPPORT

If a couple has relatives abroad willing to be the 'godparents' or witnesses, these will typically make a financial contribution to the wedding, including buying and shipping the bride's dress, usually a bouffant white gown.

Reggae singer Mirla-Samuelle Pierre, 32, said her cousin who lives in New York and was her wedding godmother purchased her dress, shoes, gloves and tall sparkling crown.

"I wanted to be different to everyone else so I got the tallest one there was," said Pierre, who married her drummer and composer bandmate Duckyns St-Eloi, better known as 'Zikiki'.

. Carrefour, Haiti. Reuters/Valerie Baeriswyl
Zikiki sings to Mirla-Samuelle as she enters the church with her father Pierre Obas.

She wed in church, mainly to please her parents. But the theme of the wedding decoration was 'rastafari,' reflecting the culture of the dreadlocked groom.

Zikiki, 38, wore a red, black, green and gold scarf over his white suit and surprised his bride as she arrived in church by belting out the jazz song "What a Wonderful World."

Like all but the wealthiest Haitians, they chose not to spend any money on a grand reception or honeymoon.

"Instead, that same evening we went out to a nightclub," said Zikiki, "and we had a lot of fun together."

Valerie Baeriswyl is one of the winners of the 2019 Yannis Behrakis Photojournalism Grants and worked on this story, documenting wedding days in Haiti, over the course of several years.

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Slideshow

Dalina poses for a photograph next to her small bride on were wedding day at a hair salon in Delmas.
. Delmas, Haiti. Reuters/Valerie Baeriswyl

Dalina poses for a photograph next to her small bride on were wedding day at a hair salon in Delmas.

Brides Roselene Saint Juste and Mireille Mathurin get ready before their joint wedding ceremony to cousins Sony Vernet and Herve Vernet in Mariani.
. Mariani, Haiti. Reuters/Valerie Baeriswyl

Brides Roselene Saint Juste and Mireille Mathurin get ready before their joint wedding ceremony to cousins Sony Vernet and Herve Vernet in Mariani.

Bride Mauseline Greffin, a shopkeeper, has her eyebrows done by a friend before her wedding to Favilson Pierre, a taxi driver, who she met at their church.
. Carrefour, Haiti. Reuters/Valerie Baeriswyl

Bride Mauseline Greffin, a shopkeeper, has her eyebrows done by a friend before her wedding to Favilson Pierre, a taxi driver, who she met at their church.

Abydarlyne Jouth, poses for a photograph with her bridesmaids during a dress fitting.
. Haiti. Reuters/Valerie Baeriswyl

Abydarlyne Jouth, poses for a photograph with her bridesmaids during a dress fitting.

Renold St Hilaire, 56, a church friend of Beane Jean and Franck's, who are getting married, irons a guest's dress before the wedding, at her home in L'Asile.
. L'Asile, Haiti. Reuters/Valerie Baeriswyl

Renold St Hilaire, 56, a church friend of Beane Jean and Franck's, who are getting married, irons a guest's dress before the wedding, at her home in L'Asile.

Edeline Philipe, 17, who as part of a Haitian wedding tradition announces the arrival of the bride, waits for bride Sherlyne Fernand before making their way in a procession to the church in Leogane Arrondissement.
. Leogane Arrondissement, Haiti. Reuters/Valerie Baeriswyl

Edeline Philipe, 17, who as part of a Haitian wedding tradition announces the arrival of the bride, waits for bride Sherlyne Fernand before making their way in a procession to the church in Leogane Arrondissement.

Father of the bride Merilus Bonheur, who works as a forest ranger, leads his daughter Christela Bonheur, 29, and their relatives to church in Foret des Pins on the day of Christela's wedding to Jocithe Auguste. "We used to talk on the phone when I went to school in Croix-des-Bouquets. He lived in the Dominican Republic. We spent three years together before he asked for my hand," Bonheur said.
. Foret des Pins, Haiti. Reuters/Valerie Baeriswyl

Father of the bride Merilus Bonheur, who works as a forest ranger, leads his daughter Christela Bonheur, 29, and their relatives to church in Foret des Pins on the day of Christela's wedding to Jocithe Auguste. "We used to talk on the phone when I went to school in Croix-des-Bouquets. He lived in the Dominican Republic. We spent three years together before he asked for my hand," Bonheur said.

Joseph, a teacher, and Louimene Louis pose for a photograph with Midene Belantine, Louis's cousin and Benita Estima, Joseph's cousin, in the courtyard of a family friend's house before getting married in Bouli.
. Bouli, Haiti. Reuters/Valerie Baeriswyl

Joseph, a teacher, and Louimene Louis pose for a photograph with Midene Belantine, Louis's cousin and Benita Estima, Joseph's cousin, in the courtyard of a family friend's house before getting married in Bouli.

Father Duportal listens to Louis's confessions as part of a tradition where both the bride and groom have to confess before getting married, in Bouli.
. Bouli, Haiti. Reuters/Valerie Baeriswyl

Father Duportal listens to Louis's confessions as part of a tradition where both the bride and groom have to confess before getting married, in Bouli.

Bride Vanessa Dorsainvil and her groom Wesley Desir are surrounded by their godparents during a couples blessing at Shekinah Adventist Church in Port au Prince.
. Port au Prince, Haiti. Reuters/Valerie Baeriswyl

Bride Vanessa Dorsainvil and her groom Wesley Desir are surrounded by their godparents during a couples blessing at Shekinah Adventist Church in Port au Prince.

Anelia Marcelus, 36, and Claudel Francois, 38, exchange rings during their wedding ceremony at Salem Evangelical Baptist Church in Port au Prince Arrondissement.
. Port au Prince Arrondissement, Haiti. Reuters/Valerie Baeriswyl

Anelia Marcelus, 36, and Claudel Francois, 38, exchange rings during their wedding ceremony at Salem Evangelical Baptist Church in Port au Prince Arrondissement.

Julio and Dalina, who met at university, kiss each other for the first time as husband and wife.
. Delmas, Haiti. Reuters/Valerie Baeriswyl

Julio and Dalina, who met at university, kiss each other for the first time as husband and wife.

Granvil reacts as she is photographed by guests on their smartphones during her wedding day in Etienne Termidor.
. Cap Haitien, Haiti. Reuters/Valerie Baeriswyl

Granvil reacts as she is photographed by guests on their smartphones during her wedding day in Etienne Termidor.

Godmother Woodna Verne wears a white dress as guests at Mireille Mathurin and Herve Vernet's wedding, leave the church in Mariani.
. Mariani, Haiti. Reuters/Valerie Baeriswyl

Godmother Woodna Verne wears a white dress as guests at Mireille Mathurin and Herve Vernet's wedding, leave the church in Mariani.

Guests load a generator onto a bus to be taken to Tatiana Delpeche and Markens Dorcius's wedding venue. A generator can be an essential element for a wedding in Haiti, especially in the countryside, where some areas are not electrified.
. Liancourt, Haiti. Reuters/Valerie Baeriswyl

Guests load a generator onto a bus to be taken to Tatiana Delpeche and Markens Dorcius's wedding venue. A generator can be an essential element for a wedding in Haiti, especially in the countryside, where some areas are not electrified.

Santhonax Toussaint, 25, and Luisemene Antoine, 22, return from the church where they got married, as they make their way into their wedding reception in Toussaint's family courtyard.
. Thiotte, Haiti. Reuters/Valerie Baeriswyl

Santhonax Toussaint, 25, and Luisemene Antoine, 22, return from the church where they got married, as they make their way into their wedding reception in Toussaint's family courtyard.

Bride Christella Bonheur, 29, sits after marrying Jocithe Auguste, 30, at a church in Foret des Pins.
. Foret des Pins, Haiti. Reuters/Valerie Baeriswyl

Bride Christella Bonheur, 29, sits after marrying Jocithe Auguste, 30, at a church in Foret des Pins.

The godfather pours a drink for Etienne Termidor, a carpenter, and Iseleine Granvil, a teacher, before making a speech in Cap Haitien.
. Cap Haitien, Haiti. Reuters/Valerie Baeriswyl

The godfather pours a drink for Etienne Termidor, a carpenter, and Iseleine Granvil, a teacher, before making a speech in Cap Haitien.

Family members, stand in the street with cooked chicken that they took from their wedding reception during a power cut, as they wait for public transport to take them home, in Delmas.
. Delmas, Haiti. Reuters/Valerie Baeriswyl

Family members, stand in the street with cooked chicken that they took from their wedding reception during a power cut, as they wait for public transport to take them home, in Delmas.

Bride Tatiana Delpeche and Groom Markens’s wedding guests, travel in a crowded car from the church to their wedding reception in Liancourt.
. Liancourt, Haiti. Reuters/Valerie Baeriswyl

Bride Tatiana Delpeche and Groom Markens’s wedding guests, travel in a crowded car from the church to their wedding reception in Liancourt.