Model soldiers and secret bunkers on Taiwan’s front line with China

Model soldiers and secret bunkers on Taiwan’s front line with China

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Chen Ing-wen strides up to a rocky outcrop some 3 km (1.9 miles) from China's coast on Taiwan-controlled Kinmen island and demonstrates how as a soldier he used to shoot from there at Chinese trawlers that got too close.

"It was just to scare them - but they weren't scared," said Chen, 50, who did his military service on Kinmen from 1991 to 1993. "We were not trying to kill them, just warn them away."

Sitting on the front line between Taiwan and China, Kinmen is the last place where the two engaged in major fighting, in 1958 at the height of the Cold War, and where memories of war are burned into minds decades later - large model soldiers point guns at China from some old bunkers.

. Kinmen, TAIWAN. Reuters/Ann Wang
Chen stands atop a rocky outcrop demonstrating how as a soldier he used to shoot at Chinese trawlers that got too close.

China views Taiwan as part of its territory, and has never renounced the use of force to bring it under Beijing's control.

A recent spike in tensions, with China's air force carrying out four days of mass incursions into Taiwan's air defence zone starting on Oct. 1, caused alarm in Western capitals and Taipei that Beijing may be planning something more dramatic.

But in Kinmen, less than an hour by plane from Taipei and directly facing the high rises of China's Xiamen, there is no sense of panic nor restrictions on visiting from Taiwan, but only a feeling of surprise over questions about whether it is advisable to come.

. Kinmen, TAIWAN. Reuters/Ann Wang
An aeroplane flies over a former military bunker towards the airport.

"We are a very safe place. Whether economically or on people's lives we have not felt any impact from cross-strait tensions," Ting Chien-kang, who runs the Kinmen government's tourism department, told Reuters outside a ruined house briefly occupied by Communist troops in an abortive invasion of the island in December 1949.

Kinmen, along with the Matsu archipelago further up the Chinese coast, has been held by the government in Taipei since the defeated Republic of China forces fled to Taiwan in 1949 after loosing a civil war with the Communists.

. Kinmen, TAIWAN. Reuters/Ann Wang
A painting depicts the Taiwan military arresting communists attempting to invade Taiwan during the Battle of Guningtou.

Regular shelling did not end until Dec. 15, 1978, when Washington formally recognised Beijing over Taipei, though by then it was shells fired on odd-numbered days carrying propaganda leaflets that fell.

Still, those shells could and often did kill people, and terrified residents - a memory that haunts older Kinmeners.

. Kinmen, TAIWAN. Reuters/Ann Wang
Wu Ja-shin, 37, holds an old shell that was fired from China during the 1960s.

"I don't want that to happen again," said Jessica Chen, 53, who runs a tea shop and remembers the shelling. "People may think the situation is tense, but we're used to it."

TIME WARP

At its nearest point, from the Mashan observation post, the main island of Kinmen is at low tide less than 2km from Chinese-controlled territory. It was from there former World Bank chief economist Justin Lin swam across to defect to China in 1979.

A much-reduced military garrison remains, way down from 100,000 at the height of fighting, with tanks on occasion rumbling through back roads and soldiers guarding hidden entrances to command posts dug under the thick rock.

. Kinmen, TAIWAN. Reuters/Ann Wang
An abandoned military tank sinks in the sand

With new weapons, including precision missiles, any Chinese attack now would likely bypass Kinmen and go straight to military targets on Taiwan, though Kinmen, which relies on China for a stable water supply, could easily be blockaded.

Kinmen's government is working hard to promote the island as more than just a war monument, hoping to entice younger visitors to see its otters and go bird watching, to stay in trendy new boutique guest houses and enjoy the local oysters.

. Kinmen, TAIWAN. Reuters/Ann Wang
A man on a scooter drives past a fruit stall.

The time warp Kinmen exists in is everywhere to see, though much of that is intentionally kept for the tourists.

The old-fashioned language on carefully preserved propaganda signs calls the Communists "bandits", and statues of late leader Chiang Kai-shek, a man now vilified by many Taiwanese for his often brutal dictatorship, laud him as the "people's saviour".

. Kinmen, TAIWAN. Reuters/Ann Wang
A painting of Former Taiwan President Chiang Kai-shek.

Some have turned the past tensions into profit, like Kinmen's renowned makers of knives from old shell casings, even if they too do not want to go back to the old days of hiding in air raid shelters from Communist attacks.

. Kinmen, TAIWAN. Reuters/Ann Wang
A bladesmith makes knives out of shells fired from China between 1958 to 1979.

"Reunification is best - not war," said knife maker Lin You-hsin, 60. "Peaceful coexistence is much better."

(Photo Editing Kezia Levitas; Text Editing; Mike Collett-White Layout Kezia Levitas)

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Slideshow

A mannequin of a soldier aims in the direction of China.
. Kinmen, TAIWAN. Reuters/Ann Wang

A mannequin of a soldier aims in the direction of China.

The flag of Taiwan is seen painted on Shihyu Islet in front of Xiamen, a coastal city in China.
. Kinmen, TAIWAN. Reuters/Ann Wang

The flag of Taiwan is seen painted on Shihyu Islet in front of Xiamen, a coastal city in China.

A shop owner dressed in replica military uniform sells tea eggs to tourists.
. Kinmen, TAIWAN. Reuters/Ann Wang

A shop owner dressed in replica military uniform sells tea eggs to tourists.

Two veterans explore an old assembly hall they visited as young men during their military service.
. Kinmen, TAIWAN. Reuters/Ann Wang

Two veterans explore an old assembly hall they visited as young men during their military service.

The temple of General Li Guang-Qian, built in memory of a regimental commander who died fighting enemies in the Battle of Guningtou.
. Kinmen, TAIWAN. Reuters/Ann Wang

The temple of General Li Guang-Qian, built in memory of a regimental commander who died fighting enemies in the Battle of Guningtou.

Tourists visit the Zhaishan Tunnel, built to hide supply boats in 1961.
. Kinmen, TAIWAN. Reuters/Ann Wang

Tourists visit the Zhaishan Tunnel, built to hide supply boats in 1961.

An old bunker bearing the words "fight to protect the country" sinks into the sand.
. Kinmen, TAIWAN. Reuters/Ann Wang

An old bunker bearing the words "fight to protect the country" sinks into the sand.

The flag of Taiwan flies on a scooter.
. Kinmen, TAIWAN. Reuters/Ann Wang

The flag of Taiwan flies on a scooter.

A resident gets a haircut at a barber shop.
. Kinmen, TAIWAN. Reuters/Ann Wang

A resident gets a haircut at a barber shop.

Dong Teng-siang, a third generation traditional lantern maker works at his home.
. Kinmen, TAIWAN. Reuters/Ann Wang

Dong Teng-siang, a third generation traditional lantern maker works at his home.

Local women gather to play the game Four Colour Cards.
. Kinmen, TAIWAN. Reuters/Ann Wang

Local women gather to play the game Four Colour Cards.

A family collects clams on the beach where anti landing barricades remain.
. Kinmen, TAIWAN. Reuters/Ann Wang

A family collects clams on the beach where anti landing barricades remain.

A butcher prepares meat at his stall at a morning market.
. Kinmen, TAIWAN. Reuters/Ann Wang

A butcher prepares meat at his stall at a morning market.

Beishan Broadcasting Wall, a propaganda loudspeaker facing China.
. Kinmen, TAIWAN. Reuters/Ann Wang

Beishan Broadcasting Wall, a propaganda loudspeaker facing China.

Residents use equipment in the park to exercise.
. Kinmen, TAIWAN. Reuters/Ann Wang

Residents use equipment in the park to exercise.

A dog stands on the counter of a souvenir shop.
. Kinmen, TAIWAN. Reuters/Ann Wang

A dog stands on the counter of a souvenir shop.

A woman prays to a wind lion guardian at a temple in Shanhou village.
. Kinmen, TAIWAN. Reuters/Ann Wang

A woman prays to a wind lion guardian at a temple in Shanhou village.

A mannequin of a soldier stands inside a bunker facing Xiamen, China.
. Kinmen, TAIWAN. Reuters/Ann Wang

A mannequin of a soldier stands inside a bunker facing Xiamen, China.

Chen Hong-Ren, a veteran, poses wearing a replica of his old military uniform.
. Kinmen, TAIWAN. Reuters/Ann Wang

Chen Hong-Ren, a veteran, poses wearing a replica of his old military uniform.

A group of veterans exchange stories about their time in military camp over a late night drink.
. Kinmen, TAIWAN. Reuters/Ann Wang

A group of veterans exchange stories about their time in military camp over a late night drink.

Veterans celebrate their reunion with beer, bbq and karaoke.
. Kinmen, TAIWAN. Reuters/Ann Wang

Veterans celebrate their reunion with beer, bbq and karaoke.

Hong Jow Hong displays a photo of himself as a young solider in 1984 and a more recent photo of him standing at the same spot.
. Kinmen, TAIWAN. Reuters/Ann Wang

Hong Jow Hong displays a photo of himself as a young solider in 1984 and a more recent photo of him standing at the same spot.

A group of veterans and their family members take part in a flag raising ceremony at a former military post.
. Kinmen, TAIWAN. Reuters/Ann Wang

A group of veterans and their family members take part in a flag raising ceremony at a former military post.

Chen Ing-wen prays at a temple inside a bunker that was once his dormitory as a young soldier on Kinmen, Taiwan, October 16, 2021. Sitting on the front line between Taiwan and China, Kinmen is the last place where the two engaged in major fighting, in 1958 at the height of the Cold War, and where memories of war are burned into minds decades later.
. Kinmen, TAIWAN. Reuters/Ann Wang

Chen Ing-wen prays at a temple inside a bunker that was once his dormitory as a young soldier on Kinmen, Taiwan, October 16, 2021. Sitting on the front line between Taiwan and China, Kinmen is the last place where the two engaged in major fighting, in 1958 at the height of the Cold War, and where memories of war are burned into minds decades later.

A veteran wears a replica of his military uniform while looking out from a bunker,  during an annual trip back to Kinmen, Taiwan, October 17, 2021. Sitting on the front line between Taiwan and China, Kinmen is the last place where the two engaged in major fighting, in 1958 at the height of the Cold War, and where memories of war are burned into minds decades later.
. Kinmen, TAIWAN. Reuters/Ann Wang

A veteran wears a replica of his military uniform while looking out from a bunker, during an annual trip back to Kinmen, Taiwan, October 17, 2021. Sitting on the front line between Taiwan and China, Kinmen is the last place where the two engaged in major fighting, in 1958 at the height of the Cold War, and where memories of war are burned into minds decades later.

A former military outpost stands on the beach on Kinmen, Taiwan, October 16, 2021. Sitting on the front line between Taiwan and China, Kinmen is the last place where the two engaged in major fighting, in 1958 at the height of the Cold War, and where memories of war are burned into minds decades later.
. Kinmen, TAIWAN. Reuters/Ann Wang

A former military outpost stands on the beach on Kinmen, Taiwan, October 16, 2021. Sitting on the front line between Taiwan and China, Kinmen is the last place where the two engaged in major fighting, in 1958 at the height of the Cold War, and where memories of war are burned into minds decades later.

Chen Hong-Ren, 58, a veteran, poses for a photo while wearing a replica of the military uniform he wore during his service on Kinmen, Taiwan, October 16, 2021. Sitting on the front line between Taiwan and China, Kinmen is the last place where the two engaged in major fighting, in 1958 at the height of the Cold War, and where memories of war are burned into minds decades later.
. Kinmen, TAIWAN. Reuters/Ann Wang

Chen Hong-Ren, 58, a veteran, poses for a photo while wearing a replica of the military uniform he wore during his service on Kinmen, Taiwan, October 16, 2021. Sitting on the front line between Taiwan and China, Kinmen is the last place where the two engaged in major fighting, in 1958 at the height of the Cold War, and where memories of war are burned into minds decades later.