Some Kenyans say Chinese-built railway leaves them in the dust

Some Kenyans say Chinese-built railway leaves them in the dust

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The soporific buzz of bees fills the abandoned train station at Kiu, a two-hour drive from Kenya's capital Nairobi. Rusting rail sleepers lay on the grass outside; a slender snake slithers away after footsteps disturb his sunbaked snooze.

A new Chinese-built rail track lies about 500 metres away from the old colonial-era railway station, which closed down in 2012. But the new high-speed trains thunder through without stopping; Kiu is just a dusty blur glimpsed through the window.

. Sultan Hamud, Kenya. Reuters/Baz Ratner
An SGR passenger train travels past the the town of Sultan Hamud.

Residents of this eastern Kenya town serving 6,000 people, feel bereft without their station and the old railway line, which they depended on to get to work, or the nearest hospitals. Travelling by road is a slow and costly alternative.

. Nairobi, Kenya. Reuters/Baz Ratner
A stewardess walks along the carriage of an SGR passenger train as it travels from Nairobi to Mombasa.

Opened in 2017, the new $3.3 billion railway is part of China's "One Belt, One Road" initiative, a multi-trillion dollar series of infrastructure projects upgrading land and maritime trade routes between China and Europe, Asia and Africa.

. Tsavo, Kenya. Reuters/Baz Ratner
Two children look out the window as they travel on an SGR passenger train from Mombasa to Nairobi, near Tsavo East national park in Tsavo.

The new railway sliced travel times in half for passengers and cargo travelling between the capital Nairobi and the port city of Mombasa. The non-express service takes just over four hours to make six stops but only runs once a day, a steep reduction from the 46 stops of the old service that ran twice a day.

. Kiu, Kenya. Reuters/Baz Ratner
Mutevu looks at his granddaughter Diane, as he rests at his home.

"This new railway is just for the rich. We do not benefit," said Thomas Mutevu, a welder in Kiu.

He used to commute to work in Nairobi by train every day, he said. But now the train no longer stops and it is too far and expensive by road, he has stopped commuting. Other Kiu residents who work in Nairobi now only come home at weekends, he added.

. Kutoka, Kenya. Reuters/Baz Ratner
School students line up to board an SGR passenger train at Kutoka station.

State-run Kenya Railways said the new line has boosted local travel. Passengers surged to 1.765 million in the year to June 2019, up from 1.239 million in the year to June 2018, as people who used to travel by road or air opt for the new train.

. Kiu, Kenya. Reuters/Baz Ratner
An SGR cargo train travels past St Mary's catholic church in the town of Kiu.

Cargo was up to five million tonnes last year, although some businesses complain they are being forced to use the new line.

. Kiu, Kenya. Reuters/Baz Ratner
Katembua poses for a photo outside her farm near the town of Kiu.

The new rail sliced Emily Katembua's farm in half. Although she was compensated, she struggles to get to the market without the train.

"The government should put a station here so we can benefit since we are traders who need to travel and sell our produce," she said, surrounded by goats and sheep.

. Voi, Kenya. Reuters/Baz Ratner
A blackboard written with an old train schedule on it, hangs at the decommissioned Voi train station.

Vegetable seller Margaret Njeri struggles to see a doctor without the old train. The nearest hospital is 24 kilometres away, mostly on an unpaved road.

. Athi River, Kenya. Reuters/Baz Ratner
People walk along train tracks in front of a bridge, built for SGR railway trains near the town of Athi River.

Residents must now pay about 500 shillings ($4.93) to get there by motor-bike and minibus, five times what it used to cost on the old rail, they said. Taxis are only for emergencies – they cost 10,000 shillings, almost a month's wages for a labourer.

"We have to wait on the road many hours for transport because the new railway does not have a stop here," said Njeri.

. Nairobi, Kenya. Reuters/Baz Ratner
A woman crosses a railway track just as a train approaches a makeshift train station in the Kibera slum of Nairobi.

Some want the old line, dubbed "the Lunatic Express" when British colonialists built it more than a century ago as it cost the lives of thousands of construction workers from British India and was considered a huge waste of British taxpayers money, revived as an attraction.

"It should actually be a steam train so you can actually see the smoke," said Mohammed Hersi, the chairman of the Kenya Tourism Federation, a private sector lobby. "That would be something special."

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Slideshow

Greenery grows on an old petrol pump near the decommissioned Voi train station.
. Voi, Kenya. Reuters/Baz Ratner

Greenery grows on an old petrol pump near the decommissioned Voi train station.

Documents hang on the wall of a station master's office in the town of Konza.
. Konza, Kenya. Reuters/Baz Ratner

Documents hang on the wall of a station master's office in the town of Konza.

Old train tickets are left in a draw of a ticketing office in the town of Konza.
. Konza, Kenya. Reuters/Baz Ratner

Old train tickets are left in a draw of a ticketing office in the town of Konza.

An old document hangs on the wall of a station masters office in the town of Konza.
. Konza, Kenya. Reuters/Baz Ratner

An old document hangs on the wall of a station masters office in the town of Konza.

Mutevu 's wife Francesca looks at her husband as she holds onto their granddaughter Diane, at their home in the town of Kiu.
. Kiu, Kenya. Reuters/Baz Ratner

Mutevu 's wife Francesca looks at her husband as she holds onto their granddaughter Diane, at their home in the town of Kiu.

Mutevu stands outside his home in the town of Kiu.
. Kiu, Kenya. Reuters/Baz Ratner

Mutevu stands outside his home in the town of Kiu.

An employee carries a piece of metal at Mutevu's workshop in the town of Kiu.
. Kiu, Kenya. Reuters/Baz Ratner

An employee carries a piece of metal at Mutevu's workshop in the town of Kiu.

Women work in a field next to a railway bridge for SGR trains, near the town of Kiu.
. Kiu, Kenya. Reuters/Baz Ratner

Women work in a field next to a railway bridge for SGR trains, near the town of Kiu.

Cabbage lies on a tricycle to be sold at a market in the town of Kiu.
. Kiu, Kenya. Reuters/Baz Ratner

Cabbage lies on a tricycle to be sold at a market in the town of Kiu.

People attend a service at St Mary's catholic church in the town of Kiu.
. Kiu, Kenya. Reuters/Baz Ratner

People attend a service at St Mary's catholic church in the town of Kiu.

The Mombasa SGR Terminus.
. Mombasa, Kenya. Reuters/Baz Ratner

The Mombasa SGR Terminus.

Commuters ride down an escalator at a train station in Mombasa.
. Mombasa, Kenya. Reuters/Baz Ratner

Commuters ride down an escalator at a train station in Mombasa.

A commuter pushes a stroller along the platform of Mombasa SGR Terminus in Mombasa.
. Mombasa, Kenya. Reuters/Baz Ratner

A commuter pushes a stroller along the platform of Mombasa SGR Terminus in Mombasa.

Commuters ride on an SGR passenger train.
. Nairobi, Kenya. Reuters/Baz Ratner

Commuters ride on an SGR passenger train.

Two train attendants talk amongst themselves during their break.
. Nairobi, Kenya. Reuters/Baz Ratner

Two train attendants talk amongst themselves during their break.

Commuters play a game of cards.
. Nairobi, Kenya. Reuters/Baz Ratner

Commuters play a game of cards.

An SGR passenger train passes by a field, while traveling from Nairobi to Mombasa.
. Nairobi, Kenya. Reuters/Baz Ratner

An SGR passenger train passes by a field, while traveling from Nairobi to Mombasa.

An SGR passenger train passes by elephants as it travels from Mombasa to Nairobi near Tsavo East National Park.
. Tsavo, Kenya. Reuters/Baz Ratner

An SGR passenger train passes by elephants as it travels from Mombasa to Nairobi near Tsavo East National Park.

A conductor waits outside an SGR passenger train as its stops at Kutoka Station in Kutoka.
. Kutoka, Kenya. Reuters/Baz Ratner

A conductor waits outside an SGR passenger train as its stops at Kutoka Station in Kutoka.

People stand in front of the entrance to Nairobi Terminus.
. Nairobi, Kenya. Reuters/Baz Ratner

People stand in front of the entrance to Nairobi Terminus.