For decades Bhutan had no television, no traffic lights and a culture that had barely changed in centuries.
Today, bars dot the capital, Thimphu, set in mist-covered mountains, teenagers crowd internet cafes to play violent video games, and men smoke and gamble in snooker halls.
12 Dec 2017 . Thimphu, BHUTAN. Reuters/Cathal McNaughton
There are still no traffic lights after residents protested against the installation of one, but otherwise the once-isolated Buddhist country tucked between India and China is changing, and bringing the modern world's problems in its wake.
16 Dec 2017 . Thimphu, BHUTAN. Reuters/Cathal McNaughton
Inside a gaudily lit dance club, guests watch a 38-year-old woman swaying to the songs they choose, usually traditional folk music but sometimes a Bollywood number or two.
Lhaden, a divorced mother-of-two, dances until midnight, and like thousands of her compatriots, is struggling to make ends meet.
16 Dec 2017 . Thimphu, BHUTAN. Reuters/Cathal McNaughton
"I'm not happy or sad about things, I have no other choice," said Lhaden, who only has one name.
Bhutan measures its national wealth by a Gross National Happiness index aiming to build a contented, fulfilled society. But Lhaden, who earns $125 a month, is counting the pennies.
"I live in such a small flat so I can afford food and clothes."
16 Dec 2017 . Thimphu, BHUTAN. Reuters/Cathal McNaughton
Signs of change are everywhere, pulling the country of snow-capped, jagged mountains, forests, rivers and clean air into the modern world.
Smoke billows from construction sites across the country and a giant bronze-and-gold Buddha statue that commands the entry to the Thimphu valley now shares space with modern telecom towers.
11 Dec 2017 . Thimphu, BHUTAN. Reuters/Cathal McNaughton
On the streets and even in the countryside, jeans have become as commonplace as the traditional Bhutanese knee-length gho robes for men and the ankle-length kira dresses that women wear.
13 Dec 2017 . Punakha, BHUTAN. Reuters/Cathal McNaughton
Bhutan's $2.2 billion economy remains predominantly agricultural, but mobile phones and TV sets are everywhere, even in the Phobjikha Valley, a tourist haven about seven hours' drive from Thimphu and in winter, home to Bhutan's famed black-necked cranes.
15 Dec 2017 . Phobjika, BHUTAN. Reuters/Cathal McNaughton
"Children are spending more time on their mobile phones and not studying," said Ap Daw (right), 43, a farmer who also bemoans the rising mounds of trash by the road.
14 Dec 2017 . Phobjika, BHUTAN. Reuters/Cathal McNaughton
Next to his house, a squad of Buddhist monks has discarded their crimson robes to play football, in Manchester United and Chelsea jerseys.
14 Dec 2017 . Phobjika, BHUTAN. Reuters/Cathal McNaughton
Story
Daw's 13-year-old son, Sonam Tshering, a football fan himself, has big dreams too.
"I would love to become a science teacher and watch Cristiano Ronaldo play for Real Madrid," said Sonam as he helped feed the family cattle.
Writing by Tony Tharakan