FIFA World Cup: From the Sidelines

FIFA World Cup: From the Sidelines

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Such was my haste in packing and ignorance of Russia that I nearly followed my wife's recommendation to throw in a woolly hat for the World Cup before setting off from Venezuela.

Thank goodness I didn't, because it would have felt mighty silly having that in higher summer temperatures beside the Volga river than those back home on the Caribbean.

It was not the only misconception that I, a Reuters reporter - and hordes of fans who had likewise never been here – had about a host nation stereotyped for cold weather and cold people.

. Moscow, Russia. Reuters/Christian Hartmann
People walk on a bridge over the Moskva river at the Zaryadye Park off Red Square in Moscow.

To our collective joy, edification and more than slight embarrassment, the Russia we found was hospitable, organised, modern, bending over backwards to help us - and ready to party.

. Nizhny Novgorod, RUSSIA. Reuters/Damir Sagolj
Children play on a Soviet-style military airplane at Kremlin in Nizhny Novgorod.

My assignment was in Nizhny Novgorod, a "closed city" during the Soviet era, I had read in advance. That reminded me of the grey images of tower-blocks and food lines that were a staple of English media coverage during the Cold War of my childhood.

Whatever its past, this city of 1.2 million people at the confluence of the Volga and Oka rivers is now open and rocking.

From the airport to the stadium, hotel and public squares, young volunteers from local language schools were eager to show their English and spare us stumbling over phrase-books for a 'Spasibo' (thank you) or 'Zdravstvuyte' (hello).

. Saransk, Russia. Reuters/Max Rossi
Reuters' journalists Andrew Cawthorne (left) and Mark Gleeson sit in the media tribune at the Nizhny Novgorod Stadium.

At the gorgeous new Nizhny Novgorod Stadium, whose blue-and-white hues evoke water and wind, the facilities were perfect for journalists: high-speed internet, spacious desks with a TV for replays and a great view of the pitch, and special shuttle buses to whiz us through the crowds.

On the streets, locals sang, danced and took selfies with armies of fans from Panama to South Korea. Often, conversations merrily proceeded via phone translation apps.

When Russia played in a different city, the locals poured onto the streets, chanted, and packed the fan zone in scenes of exuberant patriotism that beat anything I had witnessed in previous tournaments at Brazil 2014 and South Africa 2010.

. Kaliningrad, Russia. Reuters/Ivan Alvarado
A man walks past posters of soccer players in Kaliningrad.

Even the feared English hooligans never materialised.

Instead, 'Three Lions' fans hung out their flags and partied courteously with Russians in cafes and boulevards, while police hung back discreetly in the side-streets, un-deployed for the trouble they had been trained to expect.

. Sochi, Russia. Hannah Mckay/Hannah McKay
Hotel guests serve themselves breakfast at a buffet at the Tulip Inn Omega hotel in Sochi.

Even the food, sometimes ridiculed as stodgy and bland, was getting a thumbs-up, especially the ubiquitous Georgian cordon bleu, smoky Armenian cafes, and surprisingly affordable Siberian caviar.

"Forget everything you ever read or thought about Russia - this is absolutely brilliant! It's such a shame so many people were put off," said England fan Charlie Carline, 33, quaffing beer in the sun-kissed fan zone next to Nizhny Novgorod's 'Kremlin' castle on a hilltop overlooking the rivers.

Some of his friends, veterans of past World Cups, stayed at home for fear of a repeat of the Russian-English fan violence seen in France at the 2016 Euros or hostility due to the dire state of political relations between London and Moscow.

. Moscow, Russia. Reuters/Murad Sezer
Reuters photographers Lucy Nicholson and Matthew Childs wait for a flight at Sheremetyevo airport in Moscow.

Photographer Lucy Nicholson, based in Los Angeles, had covered seven Olympics for Reuters but never a World Cup and was excited to be finally seeing Lionel Messi and Cristiano Ronaldo.

"One of the most striking things about the World Cup compared to the Olympics, is how male it is: the vast majority of fans, media, and obviously players are male," she said.

. Kazan, Russia. Reuters/Pilar Olivares
A young woman poses as someone takes a photo of her in Kazan.

"Given this, it was surprising how little rowdiness I witnessed ... I found ordinary Russians, particularly women, to be invariably kind and warm ... This welcoming behaviour could have been inspired by pride in a national event or perhaps by the balmy weather, but much of it seemed spontaneous and genuine."

Nicholson's biggest challenge was travelling between multiple cities - from Kaliningrad on the Baltic Coast to Sochi on the Black Sea. She took 14 flights in 18 days on Aeroflot and Siberia Airlines, once falling asleep in a stadium pre-match due to the exhaustion.

. Rostov-On-Don, Russia. Reuters/Marko Djurica
Football fans have fun in the "New York" bar in Rostov-on-Don.

"It was fascinating to visit parts of Russia rarely seen by tourists," Nicholson said. "Restrictions on mass gatherings were suspended for the World Cup, creating an unusual carnival-like atmosphere."

Australia-based Reuters photographer David Gray was at his fourth consecutive World Cup and in Samara throughout.

"This World Cup differs from all the others due to one main factor - my preconceived ideas of what to expect," he said, echoing the conclusion of most Cold War-era western visitors.

. Samara, Russia. Reuters/David Gray
A visitor to the Samara Space Museum stands near a rocket on display.

"Talking with Russians during this event has broadened my understanding of their extremely strong national pride. A pride I find very admirable. It has also meant the cleanest city streets I have ever seen," said Gray, for whom the sound of water-spraying machines became as routine as that of cars.

He was also impressed by Samara's UFO-like stadium.

"The chanting and singing reverberates beautifully off the circular roof, and as at all World Cups, leaves a permanent ringing in your ears for many weeks after."

. Samara, Russia. Reuters/Pilar Olivares
Photographers wait for players before the match between Denmark and Australia at Samara stadium.

Of course, there will be a reality check after the love-in with Russia. It does still snow here in other seasons, no amount of fan fun can hide some serious political problems, and critics will say President Vladimir Putin has exploited the tournament to clean an increasingly pariah image abroad.

Yet for the glorious summer of 2018, Russia put on its best World Cup face - and the world smiled back.

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Slideshow

A boy carries a bouquet of balloons in Yekaterinburg.
. Yekaterinburg, Russia. Reuters/Damir Sagolj

A boy carries a bouquet of balloons in Yekaterinburg.

A woman sits on a bench at a street near a FIFA World Cup fan zone in Volgograd.
. Volgograd, Russia. Reuters/Toru Hanai

A woman sits on a bench at a street near a FIFA World Cup fan zone in Volgograd.

A man smokes while walking in Kazan.
. Kazan, Russia. Reuters/Jorge Silva

A man smokes while walking in Kazan.

A woman is rescued from her flooded car at the street in Nizhny Novgorod.
. Nizhny Novgorod, Russia. Reuters/Murad Sezer

A woman is rescued from her flooded car at the street in Nizhny Novgorod.

A woman and child are photographed taking a camel ride while a pony is being groomed in Bor, Nizhny Novgorod.
. Nizhny Novgorod, Russia. Reuters/Damir Sagolj

A woman and child are photographed taking a camel ride while a pony is being groomed in Bor, Nizhny Novgorod.

A man and a dog rest on the ground outside a train station in Moscow.
. Moscow, Russia. Reuters/Kai Pfaffenbach

A man and a dog rest on the ground outside a train station in Moscow.

A statue of Lenin is seen overlooking a food and beverage stall at the Luzhniki stadium in Moscow.
. Moscow, Russia. Reuters/Kai Pfaffenbach

A statue of Lenin is seen overlooking a food and beverage stall at the Luzhniki stadium in Moscow.

A woman sells souvenirs at Kremlin in Nizhny Novgorod.
. Nizhny Novgorod, Russia. Reuters/Damir Sagolj

A woman sells souvenirs at Kremlin in Nizhny Novgorod.

A pack of cigarettes is seen on an ashtray in Sochi.
. Sochi, Russia. Reuters/Carlos Barria

A pack of cigarettes is seen on an ashtray in Sochi.

An entrance to a metro station is seen in Kazan.
. Kazan, Russia. Reuters/Jorge Silva

An entrance to a metro station is seen in Kazan.

People are seen inside a bus in Volgograd.
. Volgograd, Russia. Reuters/Ueslei Marcelino

People are seen inside a bus in Volgograd.

A look-a-like of a Russian politician prepares to meet tourists at Okhotny Ryad metro station in Moscow.
. Moscow, Russia. Reuters/Kai Pfaffenbach

A look-a-like of a Russian politician prepares to meet tourists at Okhotny Ryad metro station in Moscow.

People wait for the train at a metro station after a World Cup match in Moscow.
. Moscow, Russia. Reuters/Gleb Garanich

People wait for the train at a metro station after a World Cup match in Moscow.

A goal post stands against a wall under the stands of Mordovia Arena in Saransk.
. Saransk, Russia. Reuters/Ricardo Moraes

A goal post stands against a wall under the stands of Mordovia Arena in Saransk.

Sweat covers the face of a soldier standing guard at the Eternal Flame inside the Mamayev Kurgan World War Two memorial complex in Volgograd.
. Volgograd, Russia. Reuters/Damir Sagolj

Sweat covers the face of a soldier standing guard at the Eternal Flame inside the Mamayev Kurgan World War Two memorial complex in Volgograd.

Aeroflot cabin attendants look outside after they opened the door of a airplane at Kazan International Airport.
. Kazan, Russia. Reuters/Toru Hanai

Aeroflot cabin attendants look outside after they opened the door of a airplane at Kazan International Airport.

Reuters photographer Murad Sezer looks out of the plane window in Moscow.
. Moscow, Russia. Reuters/Lucy Nicholson

Reuters photographer Murad Sezer looks out of the plane window in Moscow.

Soccer fans sleep on the floor next to a security check point at the airport in Volgograd.
. Volgograd, Russia. Reuters/Sergio Perez

Soccer fans sleep on the floor next to a security check point at the airport in Volgograd.

View of the buildings at Moscow.
. Moscow, Russia. Reuters/Mariana Bazo

View of the buildings at Moscow.

A man walks in front of The Motherland Calls statue at the Mamayev Kurgan World War Two memorial complex in Volgograd.
. Volgograd, Russia. Reuters/Jorge Silva

A man walks in front of The Motherland Calls statue at the Mamayev Kurgan World War Two memorial complex in Volgograd.

People picnic on the banks of the River Volga in Nizhny Novgorod.
. Nizhny Novgorod, Russia. Reuters/Darren Staples

People picnic on the banks of the River Volga in Nizhny Novgorod.

A public phone is seen in a hotel in Nizhny Novgorod, Russia.
. Nizhny Novgorod, Russia. Reuters/Gleb Garanich

A public phone is seen in a hotel in Nizhny Novgorod, Russia.

Curtains hang in a hotel room in Kazan.
. Kazan, Russia. Reuters/Dylan Martinez

Curtains hang in a hotel room in Kazan.

Photographer Pilar Olivares rests at Kurumoch Airport as she waits for an early morning flight in Samara.
. Samara, Russia. Reuters/Dylan Martinez

Photographer Pilar Olivares rests at Kurumoch Airport as she waits for an early morning flight in Samara.

Reuters photographers (left to right) Ivan Alvarado, Murad Sezer, and Matt Childs walk to the stadium in Saransk.
. Saransk, Russia. Reuters/Lucy Nicholson

Reuters photographers (left to right) Ivan Alvarado, Murad Sezer, and Matt Childs walk to the stadium in Saransk.

Microphones are seen on a table before the start of a news conference in Sochi.
. Sochi, Russia. Reuters/Hannah McKay

Microphones are seen on a table before the start of a news conference in Sochi.

A Russian TV presenter has her make-up applied in the media centre at the Spartak stadium in Moscow.
. Moscow, Russia. Reuters/Kai Pfaffenbach

A Russian TV presenter has her make-up applied in the media centre at the Spartak stadium in Moscow.

Photographers set up their remote cameras behind a goal, before the match between Brazil and Costa Rica at the Saint Petersburg Stadium.
. Saint Petersburg, Russia. Reuters/Carlos Garcia Rawlins

Photographers set up their remote cameras behind a goal, before the match between Brazil and Costa Rica at the Saint Petersburg Stadium.

A camera points over the pitch during the training before the match between Germany and Mexico at Luzhniki Stadium.
. Moscow, Russia. Reuters/Christian Hartmann

A camera points over the pitch during the training before the match between Germany and Mexico at Luzhniki Stadium.

Peter Jebautzke, a Reuters technician, poses for a picture near Rostov Arena in Rostov-on-Don.
. Rostov-On-Don, Russia. Reuters/Marko Djurica

Peter Jebautzke, a Reuters technician, poses for a picture near Rostov Arena in Rostov-on-Don.

A tent structure is seen at parking lot of the Mordovia Arena Stadium at Saransk.
. Saransk, Russia. Reuters/Ivan Alvarado

A tent structure is seen at parking lot of the Mordovia Arena Stadium at Saransk.

Luggage carriers are seen at Sheremetyevo airport in Moscow, Russia.
. Moscow, Russia. Reuters/Murad Sezer

Luggage carriers are seen at Sheremetyevo airport in Moscow, Russia.

A police woman leads her horse across the street leading towards the Spartak stadium in Moscow.
. Moscow, Russia. Reuters/Kai Pfaffenbach

A police woman leads her horse across the street leading towards the Spartak stadium in Moscow.

A man waits as he sells jars of honey at the side of a highway on the outskirts of Samara.
. Samara, Russia. Reuters/David Gray

A man waits as he sells jars of honey at the side of a highway on the outskirts of Samara.

Gretar Jonsson, an Iceland supporter sits in a Lada car, on a street in Volgograd.
. Volgograd, Russia. Reuters/Ueslei Marcelino

Gretar Jonsson, an Iceland supporter sits in a Lada car, on a street in Volgograd.

A boy plays football outside the Luzhniki Stadium after the match between Denmark v France.
. Moscow, Russia. Reuters/Carl Recine

A boy plays football outside the Luzhniki Stadium after the match between Denmark v France.

A woman walks through Curonian Spit National Park in Kaliningrad.
. Kaliningrad, Russia. Reuters/Mariana Bazo

A woman walks through Curonian Spit National Park in Kaliningrad.

A trolley car drives through Volgograd.
. Volgograd, Russia. Reuters/Ueslei Marcelino

A trolley car drives through Volgograd.

The sun sets near the Lakhta Centre, which is under construction, in Saint Petersburg.
. Saint Petersburg, Russia. Reuters/Anton Vaganov

The sun sets near the Lakhta Centre, which is under construction, in Saint Petersburg.

Fans watch the broadcast during the Spain vs Iran match at Volgograd Fan Fest.
. Volgograd, Russia. Reuters/Ueslei Marcelino

Fans watch the broadcast during the Spain vs Iran match at Volgograd Fan Fest.