Haiti slaughterhouse

Haiti slaughterhouse

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The grunts of a pig or the bleating of a goat are one thing. Maybe they remind you of childhood stories or make you picture an idyllic scene in the countryside.

Then there's the sound of animals about to be killed. That’s something else.

. Port-Au-Prince, HAITI. Reuters/Andres Martinez Casares

If you haven’t heard that before and you’re not prepared, it’s quite something.

It’s very early in the morning when this goes on, well before dawn. Day after day, all through the week, it’s the same toil over and over again.

. Port-Au-Prince, HAITI. Reuters/Andres Martinez Casares

The market of Croix des Bossales, in an area that once held a slave market, stands among impoverished Haiti's interim parliament compound, shipping ports, and downtown Port-au-Prince.

The outdoor slaughterhouse of La Saline, which supplies the market, is mired in mud and littered with rubbish. It's a cluster of shacks, some with tin roofs, others with tarpaulins.

. Port-Au-Prince, HAITI. Reuters/Andres Martinez Casares

Jesner Sakage, seen here peeling a goat’s head, is one of the slaughter workers. He scrapes the snout free of its hair with a dull butter knife, adding to the pile of fur in between his feet.

“I’ve been here since 1982," says Sakage, 78, his mouth with less than half its intended teeth.

. Port-Au-Prince, HAITI. Reuters/Andres Martinez Casares

This isn’t among the best neighbourhoods of Port-au-Prince, so to start with it was complicated, at times, being there.

Some people didn’t agree with me taking photos and that became a little problematic. But little by little people became more trusting and let me work in peace.

. Port-Au-Prince, HAITI. Reuters/Andres Martinez Casares

I spent several days over a number of months documenting the workers’ daily grind of killing and then preparing the animals for sale when the market opens.

Jean Libonet has been slaughtering and skinning goats for some 16 years.

Libonet and an assistant drape the goat's head over the edge of the table, cut its throat, and collect the blood in a bucket below. Nothing goes to waste.

He works a knife from the back hoof, slicing the skin and tendon up the knee, then snaps the bone at the knee joint. He drapes the dead animal over a wooden rod, joining six others.

. Port-Au-Prince, HAITI. Reuters/Andres Martinez Casares

His wooden butchering table has machete and knife marks all over. Anxious stray dogs hide under the table, ready to pounce on any loose morsel falling in view.

. Port-Au-Prince, HAITI. Reuters/Andres Martinez Casares

Here, Sackage sticks his hand into a slowly bubbling pot of green liquid and fishes out a goat head.

Seeing animals being killed isn’t new to me.

In some places in Spain, where I am from, the winter slaughter still happens. It’s traditional in rural areas. Families kill pigs, especially, but also cows, then prepare dry-cured meat that can last a whole year.

. Port-Au-Prince, HAITI. Reuters/Andres Martinez Casares

That, as well as the Muslim festival of Eid-al-Adha, a few years ago in Cairo, is the closest I’ve come to anything similar to this market in Haiti.

Although animals are killed in all three cases, the hygiene conditions and the way it’s done are all different. Here, a butcher peels off the skin from a pig.

Smell is one of the most basic associations we make as humans. Different smells take us back to childhood or remind us of a loved one.

As a child I spent many summers in the countryside, where I was always surrounded by fields of crops and farm animals.

Back in Haiti, the smell assaulted my senses, seeming to seep into me.

The stench produced from burning animal skins is very distinctive. But the smell that best defines this place is a mix of damp earth, animal dung and blood, which you can savour from the road when you pass by.

If in the future I happen to chance on that kind of smell again, I’m sure it will take me back to Port-au-Prince in the hours before dawn.

(Editing by Brian McGee)

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Slideshow

A butcher holding a knife takes a rest.
. Port-Au-Prince, HAITI. Reuters/Andres Martinez Casares

A butcher holding a knife takes a rest.

A butcher pulls along a pig.
. Port-Au-Prince, HAITI. Reuters/Andres Martinez Casares

A butcher pulls along a pig.

A man holds two goats tethered on a rope.
. Port-Au-Prince, HAITI. Reuters/Andres Martinez Casares

A man holds two goats tethered on a rope.

A butcher carries a goat on his head.
. Port-Au-Prince, HAITI. Reuters/Andres Martinez Casares

A butcher carries a goat on his head.

Jesner Sakage takes a goat head out of a pot.
. Port-Au-Prince, HAITI. Reuters/Andres Martinez Casares

Jesner Sakage takes a goat head out of a pot.

A man ties animals on his motorbike to transport them.
. Port-Au-Prince, HAITI. Reuters/Andres Martinez Casares

A man ties animals on his motorbike to transport them.

A street vendor has breakfast.
. Port-Au-Prince, HAITI. Reuters/Andres Martinez Casares

A street vendor has breakfast.

A wheelbarrow contains two butchered pigs.
. Port-Au-Prince, HAITI. Reuters/Andres Martinez Casares

A wheelbarrow contains two butchered pigs.

A butcher is seen.
. Port-Au-Prince, HAITI. Reuters/Andres Martinez Casares

A butcher is seen.

Jesner Sakage peels a goat’s head.
. Port-Au-Prince, HAITI. Reuters/Andres Martinez Casares

Jesner Sakage peels a goat’s head.

A butcher cuts the skin of an animal as he peels it.
. Port-Au-Prince, HAITI. Reuters/Andres Martinez Casares

A butcher cuts the skin of an animal as he peels it.