In old Bangkok, a goddess resists a wave of gentrification

Outside, a tall, newly erected metal fence stands between the goddess and a vast construction site, where a dozen trucks and excavators are waiting to move in and demolish the historic shrine once at the heart of the Thai capital's Chinese migrant community.

The stone lions that protect the shrine may not hold out much longer. Bangkok's Chulalongkorn University, which owns the land, plans to construct two residential buildings comprising 1,758 units, despite protests from its own students.

"Sooner or later they will cut the water supply and electricity," said Penprapa Ployseesuay, the shrine's caretaker for 25 years.

Chao Mae Thap Thim is a rare holdout against a wave of gentrification across one of Asia's most vibrant capitals, where change is being thrust upon a melting pot of communities that have for generations resisted it.

Penprapa lives with her mother and two sons in a small house beside the shrine and opens it to anyone wishing to pay respects to the goddess, or seek her guidance or blessings.

A committee is fighting the eviction and has sought a court injunction against it.

The university, in a response to Reuters' questions, said it would build a new shrine at a space it has prepared at its Centenary Park "where its grace and auspiciousness will remain with the community".

Penprapa said a new site could not replicate the original charm of the century-old shrine, which moved to its current location 53 years ago after a fire.

"We will resist as long as we can," she said. "I know it won't be easy."

The coexistence of old and new is central to Bangkok's character, but its skyscrapers and condominium clusters are eclipsing its shabbier side. A notable example is the $1.79 billion Iconsiam, a mega-mall of entertainment, retail and panoramic riverside views where stilted houses and blackened buildings once stood.

"I'm excited about the new vibe," said Surin Sae-Ton, 50, who runs a tea shop across the river from Iconsiam. "But I don't know how the community will be in future with this new prosperity."