Capturing 24 hours in Gaza, one hour at a time

Capturing 24 hours in Gaza, one hour at a time

Advertisement

In the build-up to the one-year anniversary of the Gaza border protests that opened up a deadly new front in the Israeli-Palestinian conflict, Reuters photographer Dylan Martinez visited Gaza for the first time.

As someone who had never set eyes on Gaza, his assignment was to use those unfamiliar eyes to record life beyond the daily drumbeat of violence in the blockaded Palestinian territory.

. Gaza, Palestinian Territories. Reuters/Dylan Martinez
Locals walk past a graffiti.

The mood has become more tense in recent weeks as the March 30 anniversary nears, with trails of Palestinian rockets and Israeli missiles again appearing in the skies above.

Martinez did not know what to expect after he crossed through Israel’s fortified checkpoint and past a long caged walkway and parallel road leading to a dilapidated Palestinian checkpoint at the other end.

"We have a great team of photographers and journalists in Gaza whose main task, really, is to photograph the protest, the clashes between Israel and Gaza," said Martinez, 49, a 28-year Reuters veteran who has covered Europe, Asia and the Americas and is currently based in London.

"My remit, I think, was to do pretty much anything but that. Because everyone has seen that side of Gaza."

. Gaza, Palestinian Territories. Reuters/Dylan Martinez
The beach is a popular destination for Gazans to cool down in the summer, but the waters are highly polluted.

Gaza is a 139-square-mile (360-square-kilometre) coastal strip situated between Tel Aviv and Sinai and is home to around two million Palestinians, two thirds of them refugees.

It has been governed by the Islamist Palestinian movement Hamas since shortly after Israel withdrew its soldiers and settlers in 2005.

With its armed brigades and thousands of police and security men on the streets, Hamas controls Gaza's interior as tightly as Israeli soldiers, gunboats and warplanes control most of Gaza’s perimeter, with Egyptian walls and watchtowers along the eight-mile southern border.

. Gaza, Palestinian Territories. Reuters/Dylan Martinez
The streets are packed with kids and their rucksacks just before 7 a.m. In 2017, a Palestinian Central Bureau of Statistics report said more than 40 percent of Gazans were under 15 years old. Just 3.3 percent of Palestinians over 15 were illiterate.

Accompanied by a Reuters assistant photographer from Gaza City, Martinez travelled the strip, photographing it at every hour of the day and night over a 10-day period.

One of the most powerful scenes was a patch of waste land between a school and a mosque where children were playing.

. Gaza, Palestinian Territories. Reuters/Dylan Martinez
Children play a game of "Arabs and Jews" outside a school.

"These kids were burning some cardboard, they had trenches, they were throwing sandballs so they weren't hurting each other. And I said, 'Oh, what are you guys doing?' and they said, ‘Oh, we are playing Jews and Arabs.'" The image, he said, "will probably stay with me forever".

Parts of Gaza, to his surprise, resembled an underdeveloped version of California's famed Venice Beach - with glorious Mediterranean sunsets, bathers and skateboarders, but often with crumbling buildings and rubbish piles as part of the backdrop.

. Gaza, Palestinian Territories. Reuters/Dylan Martinez
This particular garage has cars dating back to the 1950s, including a beautiful old Opel.

In vehicle scrapyards in the north, he saw stacks of discarded cars. With 53 percent of Gazans living in poverty, according to a United Nations report in December, valuable items such as cars are cannibalised for every accessory.

. Gaza, Palestinian Territories. Reuters/Dylan Martinez
Fishermen unload their catch as the sun rises.

The same "use everything" dynamic could be seen at the harbour, where even the smallest fish discarded from a catch were gathered to be sold to poorer families.

On Friday, while youths were protesting at the Gaza-Israel border, Martinez went to the beach to see what was going on.

"I really understood that not 2 million people had gone to the border to clash with the Israelis. What else were they doing?" he said.

. Gaza, Palestinian Territories. Reuters/Dylan Martinez
A group of youngsters who call themselves the Gaza Skate Gang hang out at a skate park by the port.

"I found a bunch of skaters there with, I don’t know, I think they had one or two boards between them, some pretty ropey roller blades... they were just busy filming themselves trying to do flips, trying to do tricks, things like that."

. Gaza, Palestinian Territories. Reuters/Dylan Martinez
Locals play computer games and snooker at The Colompy Pool Hall.

After the sun falls and the streets empty, pool halls and bakeries continue to operate through the darkness imposed by night, and by Gaza’s constant power cuts.

Martinez was warned many times by officials and bystanders on the street, in a more cautionary than menacing manner, not to photograph Hamas checkpoints and military installations.

. Gaza, Palestinian Territories. Reuters/Dylan Martinez
Fishermen are allowed to fish just a few miles out to sea before they are stopped by Israeli forces.

Often, he did not realise what the buildings were because their exteriors gave no sign of what might have been within. Otherwise, Martinez encountered few problems.

"There’s a real sense of being enclosed. You can stand on the beach looking out toward the horizon and see this fantastic sun and crystal blue waters, a sense you are part of the world and there is everything around you."
Dylan Martinez
.

"You look to the right, you turn one way, and there is Israel and you can go down this road but in a car it was taking 20 minutes. You look the other way, there is Egypt. You go down the road there, there’s a blockade, you can’t go any further.

. Gaza, Palestinian Territories. Reuters/Dylan Martinez
Lights from Israel can be seen on the horizon. The Gaza lights are illuminating a military checkpoint and training camp, top right.

"You look inland, and there in the background as well is the horizon, is Israel. And you can’t go that way.

"So there is always a feeling you can only go so far one way. And the other way. I did feel it. There is a sort of feeling of enclosure."

1 / 19

Slideshow

A boy carries cardboard to burn as he walks through the streets.
. Gaza, Palestinian Territories. Reuters/Dylan Martinez

A boy carries cardboard to burn as he walks through the streets.

A worker prepares metal at a rubbish and recycle centre. Everything is recycled but here they want any kind of metal they can sell-on.
. Gaza, Palestinian Territories. Reuters/Dylan Martinez

A worker prepares metal at a rubbish and recycle centre. Everything is recycled but here they want any kind of metal they can sell-on.

A group of youngsters who call themselves the Gaza Skate Gang hang out at a skate park.
. Gaza, Palestinian Territories. Reuters/Dylan Martinez

A group of youngsters who call themselves the Gaza Skate Gang hang out at a skate park.

Singer Rahaf Shamali,15, Hamada Nasralla, 23, Ismaiel Al H'Razin, 42, Islam Mohsen, 24. and Saied Fadel of "Solband" pose on the roof of their apartment block.
. Gaza, Palestinian Territories. Reuters/Dylan Martinez

Singer Rahaf Shamali,15, Hamada Nasralla, 23, Ismaiel Al H'Razin, 42, Islam Mohsen, 24. and Saied Fadel of "Solband" pose on the roof of their apartment block.

Saied Fadel, 22, and Hamada Nasrallah, 23, of "Solband" rehearse, as a clown on stilts walks by.
. Gaza, Palestinian Territories. Reuters/Dylan Martinez

Saied Fadel, 22, and Hamada Nasrallah, 23, of "Solband" rehearse, as a clown on stilts walks by.

People arrive for prayer at Al Saeed Hashem Mosque. This mosque is the largest and oldest in Gaza.
. Gaza, Palestinian Territories. Reuters/Dylan Martinez

People arrive for prayer at Al Saeed Hashem Mosque. This mosque is the largest and oldest in Gaza.

Football fans and officials pray during half-time match between Rafah and their rivals Beit Hanoun. Gaza seemed evenly split between Real Madrid and Barcelona fans, but local rivalries also run deep, with some matches having to be played on neutral grounds.
. Gaza, Palestinian Territories. Reuters/Dylan Martinez

Football fans and officials pray during half-time match between Rafah and their rivals Beit Hanoun. Gaza seemed evenly split between Real Madrid and Barcelona fans, but local rivalries also run deep, with some matches having to be played on neutral grounds.

Older Gaza residents remember watching Egyptian movies in cinemas during the 1960s, but from the 1980s on, fundamentalist Islamist groups burned down such places of public entertainment and closed liquor shops.
. Gaza, Palestinian Territories. Reuters/Dylan Martinez

Older Gaza residents remember watching Egyptian movies in cinemas during the 1960s, but from the 1980s on, fundamentalist Islamist groups burned down such places of public entertainment and closed liquor shops.

Bedouin jockeys parade their camels during a wedding party. Families hire the camels to entertain guests during the celebrations, which often become a spectacle for the whole neighbourhood.
. Gaza, Palestinian Territories. Reuters/Dylan Martinez

Bedouin jockeys parade their camels during a wedding party. Families hire the camels to entertain guests during the celebrations, which often become a spectacle for the whole neighbourhood.

The Gaza Strip is swathed in beautiful light, and enjoys spectacular sunsets and sunrises. Just 25 miles long and a few miles wide, it is home to nearly 2 million Palestinians, around two-thirds of them refugees.
. Gaza, Palestinian Territories. Reuters/Dylan Martinez

The Gaza Strip is swathed in beautiful light, and enjoys spectacular sunsets and sunrises. Just 25 miles long and a few miles wide, it is home to nearly 2 million Palestinians, around two-thirds of them refugees.

An Israeli factory is seen in the background as children play. Although Gaza is mostly sealed off from the outside world by walls and fences, Israel is clearly visible from many points, as is Egypt from the south.
. Gaza, Palestinian Territories. Reuters/Dylan Martinez

An Israeli factory is seen in the background as children play. Although Gaza is mostly sealed off from the outside world by walls and fences, Israel is clearly visible from many points, as is Egypt from the south.

A local shop uses a generator for power by the port. Power cuts affect the whole city at one time or another.
. Gaza, Palestinian Territories. Reuters/Dylan Martinez

A local shop uses a generator for power by the port. Power cuts affect the whole city at one time or another.

Fishermen bring their catch into the port. Gaza's fisherman are often only able to fish a few miles from the coast - the distance varies. Israeli gunboats stop them going farther.
. Gaza, Palestinian Territories. Reuters/Dylan Martinez

Fishermen bring their catch into the port. Gaza's fisherman are often only able to fish a few miles from the coast - the distance varies. Israeli gunboats stop them going farther.

A group of jobless men burn cardboard to warm themselves. The men said they would gladly work for just 5 shekels a day (about $1.35) but there were no jobs. In October 2018 the World Bank said 54 percent of Gaza's workforce is unemployed, including 70 percent of youths.
. Gaza, Palestinian Territories. Reuters/Dylan Martinez

A group of jobless men burn cardboard to warm themselves. The men said they would gladly work for just 5 shekels a day (about $1.35) but there were no jobs. In October 2018 the World Bank said 54 percent of Gaza's workforce is unemployed, including 70 percent of youths.

Furniture is displayed outside a store.
. Gaza, Palestinian Territories. Reuters/Dylan Martinez

Furniture is displayed outside a store.

A woman begs outside a shopping mall. Despite widespread poverty seeing anyone beg is rare and I saw nobody sleeping rough.
. Gaza, Palestinian Territories. Reuters/Dylan Martinez

A woman begs outside a shopping mall. Despite widespread poverty seeing anyone beg is rare and I saw nobody sleeping rough.

A man sells cigarettes. The sellers sell individual cigarettes at one shekel apiece, or a little more than 25 U.S. cents. Gaza residents say fewer people can afford them.
. Gaza, Palestinian Territories. Reuters/Dylan Martinez

A man sells cigarettes. The sellers sell individual cigarettes at one shekel apiece, or a little more than 25 U.S. cents. Gaza residents say fewer people can afford them.

Gaza's electricity often goes down, leaving residents relying on generators or solar power. The streets are pretty much empty in the early hours of the morning - but there are still 24-hour convenience stores and bakeries.
. Gaza, Palestinian Territories. Reuters/Dylan Martinez

Gaza's electricity often goes down, leaving residents relying on generators or solar power. The streets are pretty much empty in the early hours of the morning - but there are still 24-hour convenience stores and bakeries.

People walk through dark streets during the evening.
. Gaza, Palestinian Territories. Reuters/Dylan Martinez

People walk through dark streets during the evening.