Earthprints: Rio Pardo

Earthprints: Rio Pardo

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In international talks over global climate policy, Brazil’s government time and again has stated a goal that environmental activists scoff at: eliminating illegal deforestation in the Amazon rainforest.

They scoff because environmentalists believe that Brazil, as guardian of the world’s largest rainforest, should be more ambitious. Eliminating illegal activity, after all, amounts to nothing more than enforcing the law.

. Porto Velho, Brazil. Reuters/Nacho Doce

But in remote corners of the Amazon – a major source of the planet’s fresh water and oxygen and a crucial buffer against climate change – enforcing the law is not easy.

With few resources and personnel to police even major cities, Brazilian authorities are easily outmanned and outmanoeuvred in a region the size of western Europe. As often as not, loggers, ranchers, miners and other would-be developers in the Amazon fell trees unchallenged.

Before & After

Before
. Porto Velho, Brazil. Reuters/NASA
After
. Porto Velho, Brazil. Reuters/NASA

Before: Rondonia in a NASA satellite image taken in 1975.
After: Rondonia in 2014.

In Rondonia, a western Brazilian state about half the size of Ireland, forays into the rainforest by settlers in recent decades went largely unimpeded. Since 1988, about 16 percent of the state has been cleared, according to government data. And that is just a sliver of a total area bigger than Germany that has been razed across the entire Amazon over the same period.

. Porto Velho, Brazil. Reuters/Nacho Doce

The modest town of Rio Pardo, a muddy settlement of about 4,000 people, rises now where only jungle stood less than a quarter of a century ago.

Settlement there followed a routine well-established across the deforested Amazon. Loggers clear forest, followed by ranchers and farmers, followed by small merchants and prospectors who smell opportunity.

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A tree is pictured at sunrise in the village of Rio Pardo near Bom Futuro National Forest in the district of Porto Velho, Rondonia State, Brazil.
. Porto Velho, Brazil. Reuters/Nacho Doce

A tree is pictured at sunrise in the village of Rio Pardo near Bom Futuro National Forest in the district of Porto Velho, Rondonia State, Brazil.

A burning tree is pictured near Rio Pardo.
. Porto Velho, Brazil. Reuters/Nacho Doce

A burning tree is pictured near Rio Pardo.

Men try to extinguish a fire at a farm in Rio Pardo near Bom Futuro National Forest.
. Porto Velho, Brazil. Reuters/Nacho Doce

Men try to extinguish a fire at a farm in Rio Pardo near Bom Futuro National Forest.

An aerial view of a deforested plot of the Amazon in Bom Futuro National Forest.
. Porto Velho, Brazil. Reuters/Nacho Doce

An aerial view of a deforested plot of the Amazon in Bom Futuro National Forest.

An aerial view shows the Amazon rainforest in Bom Futuro National Forest.
. Porto Velho, Brazil. Reuters/Nacho Doce

An aerial view shows the Amazon rainforest in Bom Futuro National Forest.

An aerial view shows an illegal logging camp (blue tarpaulin in foreground) in Bom Futuro National Forest near Rio Pardo.
. Porto Velho, Brazil. Reuters/Nacho Doce

An aerial view shows an illegal logging camp (blue tarpaulin in foreground) in Bom Futuro National Forest near Rio Pardo.

Celina, 66, stands next to Saldanha Hotel in the village of Rio Pardo.
. Porto Velho, Brazil. Reuters/Nacho Doce

Celina, 66, stands next to Saldanha Hotel in the village of Rio Pardo.

Residents walk on a dirt street illuminated by headlights in Rio Pardo.
. Porto Velho, Brazil. Reuters/Nacho Doce

Residents walk on a dirt street illuminated by headlights in Rio Pardo.

A man drives his motorbike past a bus in Rio Pardo.
. Porto Velho, Brazil. Reuters/Nacho Doce

A man drives his motorbike past a bus in Rio Pardo.

A man poses on the street in the village of Rio Pardo.
. Porto Velho, Brazil. Reuters/Nacho Doce

A man poses on the street in the village of Rio Pardo.

Margarida (L), owner of a petrol station in Rio Pardo, pours petrol into bottles for an electric generator.
. Porto Velho, Brazil. Reuters/Nacho Doce

Margarida (L), owner of a petrol station in Rio Pardo, pours petrol into bottles for an electric generator.

A family is pictured outside their house in Rio Pardo.
. Porto Velho, Brazil. Reuters/Nacho Doce

A family is pictured outside their house in Rio Pardo.

A boy sits as other children run in the corridors of their school in the village of Rio Pardo. The banner reads "Independence of Brazil".
. Porto Velho, Brazil. Reuters/Nacho Doce

A boy sits as other children run in the corridors of their school in the village of Rio Pardo. The banner reads "Independence of Brazil".

Francisco Morais, 69, poses in front of a public phone that he owns in Rio Pardo.
. Porto Velho, Brazil. Reuters/Nacho Doce

Francisco Morais, 69, poses in front of a public phone that he owns in Rio Pardo.

Roque sits at the table inside his house in the village of Rio Pardo.
. Porto Velho, Brazil. Reuters/Nacho Doce

Roque sits at the table inside his house in the village of Rio Pardo.

Evangelical pastors stand before a mass is held at their church in the village of Rio Pardo.
. Porto Velho, Brazil. Reuters/Nacho Doce

Evangelical pastors stand before a mass is held at their church in the village of Rio Pardo.

People pray during a mass in an evangelical church in the village of Rio Pardo.
. Porto Velho, Brazil. Reuters/Nacho Doce

People pray during a mass in an evangelical church in the village of Rio Pardo.

Women talk outside a clothing boutique in Rio Pardo.
. Porto Velho, Brazil. Reuters/Nacho Doce

Women talk outside a clothing boutique in Rio Pardo.

Telecom workers Marcos (R) and Caio (L), pose next to a phone booth that they installed in Rio Pardo.
. Porto Velho, Brazil. Reuters/Nacho Doce

Telecom workers Marcos (R) and Caio (L), pose next to a phone booth that they installed in Rio Pardo.

Amilton cools off his horse at a petrol station in Rio Pardo.
. Porto Velho, Brazil. Reuters/Nacho Doce

Amilton cools off his horse at a petrol station in Rio Pardo.

A horse stands in a pond in Rio Pardo.
. Porto Velho, Brazil. Reuters/Nacho Doce

A horse stands in a pond in Rio Pardo.

When Edivaldo Fernandes Oliveira first arrived in Rio Pardo in 1999, there were only 120 other people there. Like them, he took to cutting trees and eventually cleared enough land to start a small ranch where more than 100 cattle now graze.

Oliveira and others in Rio Pardo say they did not know at the time that the land was in one of the many national forests Brazil’s government has established, often in vain, to demarcate protected lands.

. Porto Velho, Brazil. Reuters/Nacho Doce

“I know now that it was wrong, but nobody told me when I got here,” says Oliveira, 40. “Now I have to fight.”

To fight means to struggle against ongoing efforts by Brazil’s environmental agency to move settlers like him off the protected lands.

. Porto Velho, Brazil. Reuters/Nacho Doce

But how do you move a whole town? How do you move many small towns?

Settlers, whether their crimes were deliberate or not, are now attached to the land, their families and livelihood tied to it. “This is good land,” says Zezito Oliveira, an 83-year-old farmer in Rio Pardo. “With courage and the desire to work, you reap good things here,” adds Oliveira, who is not related to Edivaldo Fernandes Oliveira.

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Already, the state has negotiated land swaps with the federal government, agreeing to reclassify untouched, but unprotected swaths of the forest to make up for some of what has already been cleared. While pragmatic, such measures are seen by critics as tantamount to rewards for wrongdoing.

But settlers see it through a lens going back to the earliest days of colonisation.

. Porto Velho, Brazil. Reuters/Nacho Doce

“The Portuguese had no titles when they came to Brazil,” says Paulo Francisco Fernandes Oliveira, the 66-year-old father of Edivaldo, the rancher, who brought him along later to help care for the cattle. “Brazil was born without titles.”

Go to next story in the series - Earthprints: Singapore