Indonesia's Citarum river burbles past terraced rice paddies and quiet farming villages in the highlands of West Java, as it begins to wind its way hundreds of kilometres towards the sea.
But the charm evaporates swiftly as the river, often labelled the world's most polluted, descends past crowded zones of factories and homes that dump a pungent stew of garbage, waste and sewage into its 300-km (190-mile) stretch.
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Majalaya resident Nurhayati, said she played in the river when she was younger, and continued to use its water for washing and drinking even after the factories and pollution arrived.
Her children have all had skin problems, she said, adding, "I'm worried, but what else can I do? There's no other water."