Two women chat over a drink in Szimpla Kert, a bar set up 12 years ago in an empty house in the decaying inner city of Budapest. From humble beginnings, Szimpla sparked a new wave of nightlife in the city, becoming the first of many “ruin pubs” that sprung up in formerly abandoned buildings and helped attract floods of tourists to the Hungarian capital. But the bars are not universally popular: they have caused serious resentment among locals, who complain about the disturbance they cause.