Rising from the ruins

Rising from the ruins

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Two women chat over a drink in Szimpla Kert, a bar set up 12 years ago in an empty house in the decaying inner city of Budapest. From humble beginnings, Szimpla sparked a new wave of nightlife in the city, becoming the first of many “ruin pubs” that sprung up in formerly abandoned buildings and helped attract floods of tourists to the Hungarian capital. But the bars are not universally popular: they have caused serious resentment among locals, who complain about the disturbance they cause.

. BUDAPEST, Hungary. REUTERS/Bernadett Szabo

Women wait for a taxi outside Szimpla, whose name translates as “simple”.

Although the idea behind the bar is basic, it has struck a profound chord with visitors. Its founder Abel Zsendovits said it drew 500-600 customers within an hour of opening its doors, and since then it has been packed out every night that it is open.

Tourists are big customers: about half of the four million annual visitors to Budapest are estimated to head to Kazinczy Street, the alley where Szimpla stands alongside dozens of other similar venues.

. BUDAPEST, Hungary. REUTERS/Bernadett Szabo

The popularity of these pubs has its drawbacks, however, as they have pitted residents against bar owners and local politicians enjoying the tourism boost.

People in the neighbourhood complain about the noise and litter as authorities cannot afford adequate cleaning or more than two or three police patrols.

"I can't sleep," says the sign to the left of the balcony on Szimpla's facade. "Shut up!" says the one to the right.

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Slideshow

A picture of a saint hangs on a graffiti-covered wall inside Szimpla.
. BUDAPEST, Hungary. REUTERS/Bernadett Szabo

A picture of a saint hangs on a graffiti-covered wall inside Szimpla.

Customers by the bar are served drinks.
. BUDAPEST, Hungary. REUTERS/Bernadett Szabo

Customers by the bar are served drinks.

An eclectic mix of decorations fills the venue.
. BUDAPEST, Hungary. REUTERS/Bernadett Szabo

An eclectic mix of decorations fills the venue.

Customers chat with one another.
. BUDAPEST, Hungary. REUTERS/Bernadett Szabo

Customers chat with one another.

Women enjoy a concert in another quirky Budapest venue, named Kek Lo (Blue Horse), which is just opposite Szimpla.
. BUDAPEST, Hungary. REUTERS/Bernadett Szabo

Women enjoy a concert in another quirky Budapest venue, named Kek Lo (Blue Horse), which is just opposite Szimpla.

A customer leans back as she watches the show.
. BUDAPEST, Hungary. REUTERS/Bernadett Szabo

A customer leans back as she watches the show.

Patrons walk through the ruined interior of Szimpla.
. BUDAPEST, Hungary. REUTERS/Bernadett Szabo

Patrons walk through the ruined interior of Szimpla.

A man uses his phone on Kazinczy Street, now home to dozens of "ruin pubs".
. BUDAPEST, Hungary. REUTERS/Bernadett Szabo

A man uses his phone on Kazinczy Street, now home to dozens of "ruin pubs".

A couple hug on Kazinczy street.
. BUDAPEST, Hungary. REUTERS/Bernadett Szabo

A couple hug on Kazinczy street.

A woman stands in front of the garden of the Mika Tivadar Mulato bar, one more venue on the same street.
. BUDAPEST, Hungary. REUTERS/Bernadett Szabo

A woman stands in front of the garden of the Mika Tivadar Mulato bar, one more venue on the same street.

A man walks by Ellato Kert, another "ruin pub".
. BUDAPEST, Hungary. REUTERS/Bernadett Szabo

A man walks by Ellato Kert, another "ruin pub".