Society and faith in Ethiopia

Society and faith in Ethiopia

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Everyone I talked to said that they expect a clear victory for the ruling Ethiopian People’s Revolutionary Democratic Front (EPRDF), which has governed the east African country for almost 25 years, in the general elections scheduled for Sunday May 24.

Perhaps that goes some way to explain what seemed to me a passive mood in the capital ahead of the poll.

. Addis Ababa, ETHIOPIA. REUTERS/Siegfried Modola
A statue of King Menelik II, the founder of Addis Ababa.

“Nothing will change during the elections or after,” said Abi, who drove me in his taxi as I discovered many aspects of the city that were new to me since my last visit to Ethiopia a few years back.

I was in awe at how fast Addis Ababa is transforming itself when I walked through the Bole neighbourhood in the centre towards Meskel Square, past newly constructed hotels and shopping centres. I could see the capital’s ambition to transform itself into a vibrant urban centre. It seemed to be well on the way.

. Addis Ababa, ETHIOPIA. REUTERS/Siegfried Modola

Wherever I travelled in the country, from the capital to the east, I discovered that religion plays a crucial role in everyday life for most Ethiopians.

The Christian Orthodox church is the largest religion in the country, with nearly half of Ethiopia’s population practising the faith. Islam is the second largest.

. Addis Ababa, ETHIOPIA. REUTERS/Siegfried Modola

In Addis Ababa, churches are everywhere; going to church is a daily affair for many of its residents.

Every morning, in the early hours, I could hear the chanting of the priest conducting mass from the Medhane Alem Cathedral.

. Addis Ababa, ETHIOPIA. REUTERS/Siegfried Modola

I arrived just when several babies were being baptised. I felt privileged as a photographer to be able to be present at such an event, and for the priests and the parents to allow me to be there and take pictures.

. Harar, ETHIOPIA. REUTERS/Siegfried Modola

It was time to discover more of Ethiopia beyond Addis Ababa.

Just a few kilometres out of the city the change in landscape was stark: from glass high-rise buildings to a scene of boys riding on traditionally decorated horses across a prairie.

Travelling through different regions in so populous a country with such a rich cultural heritage, I was fascinated and surprised by the contrasts in landscapes and people.

. Harar, ETHIOPIA. REUTERS/Siegfried Modola

In Harar, a walled town in the east of the country, you feel transported back in time. With its street markets, countless mosques and churches, the place had a strong atmosphere of ancient commerce when cultures and religions mingled.

It was a world apart from modern Addis Ababa and the town’s Islamic heritage was everywhere to see.

As a photographer, it felt great just to walk through its numerous little streets, talk to people and try to capture the spirit of the place.

. Harar, ETHIOPIA. REUTERS/Siegfried Modola

I stumbled on a young man who was feeding some eagles by a market that sold camel meat. I stood by one of the main gates of the town, close to another street market and watched as people went about their everyday life.

Apart from the occasional old but well-preserved Peugeot 404, or the numerous automated rickshaws on the streets, it struck me that things might have not looked very different here a few centuries ago.

. Harar, ETHIOPIA. REUTERS/Siegfried Modola

All the same, change is no stranger to Ethiopia, especially in the capital. I wonder how the country might have altered if I get the chance to come back again a few years from now.

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Slideshow

A man sells umbrellas to passersby.
. Addis Ababa, ETHIOPIA. REUTERS/Siegfried Modola

A man sells umbrellas to passersby.

A poster of the Virgin Mary and Jesus is displayed on a minibus.
. Addis Ababa, ETHIOPIA. REUTERS/Siegfried Modola

A poster of the Virgin Mary and Jesus is displayed on a minibus.

Orthodox Christians are on the way to and from Sunday morning mass.
. Addis Ababa, ETHIOPIA. REUTERS/Siegfried Modola

Orthodox Christians are on the way to and from Sunday morning mass.

A girl sings with her choir on a road on the outskirts of Addis Ababa.
. Addis Ababa, ETHIOPIA. REUTERS/Siegfried Modola

A girl sings with her choir on a road on the outskirts of Addis Ababa.

A priest blesses a worshipper in the Medhane Alem Cathedral.
. Addis Ababa, ETHIOPIA. REUTERS/Siegfried Modola

A priest blesses a worshipper in the Medhane Alem Cathedral.

A man prays near the Entoto Maryam church.
. Addis Ababa, ETHIOPIA. REUTERS/Siegfried Modola

A man prays near the Entoto Maryam church.

A woman stands near the Entoto Maryam church.
. Addis Ababa, ETHIOPIA. REUTERS/Siegfried Modola

A woman stands near the Entoto Maryam church.

The minaret of a mosque in the old walled town of Harar.
. Harar, ETHIOPIA. REUTERS/Siegfried Modola

The minaret of a mosque in the old walled town of Harar.

Early-morning mist surrounds a mosque in Harar.
. Harar, ETHIOPIA. REUTERS/Siegfried Modola

Early-morning mist surrounds a mosque in Harar.

A woman carries a pile of wood.
. Harar, ETHIOPIA. REUTERS/Siegfried Modola

A woman carries a pile of wood.

Boys run in the street.
. Harar, ETHIOPIA. REUTERS/Siegfried Modola

Boys run in the street.

A waiter stands in a coffee shop.
. Harar, ETHIOPIA. REUTERS/Siegfried Modola

A waiter stands in a coffee shop.

People walk in the street at night.
. Harar, ETHIOPIA. REUTERS/Siegfried Modola

People walk in the street at night.

A woman walks in the street.
. Harar, ETHIOPIA. REUTERS/Siegfried Modola

A woman walks in the street.