Society and faith in Ethiopia

“Nothing will change during the elections or after,” said Abi, who drove me in his taxi as I discovered many aspects of the city that were new to me since my last visit to Ethiopia a few years back.

I was in awe at how fast Addis Ababa is transforming itself when I walked through the Bole neighbourhood in the centre towards Meskel Square, past newly constructed hotels and shopping centres. I could see the capital’s ambition to transform itself into a vibrant urban centre. It seemed to be well on the way.

Wherever I travelled in the country, from the capital to the east, I discovered that religion plays a crucial role in everyday life for most Ethiopians.

The Christian Orthodox church is the largest religion in the country, with nearly half of Ethiopia’s population practising the faith. Islam is the second largest.

In Addis Ababa, churches are everywhere; going to church is a daily affair for many of its residents.

Every morning, in the early hours, I could hear the chanting of the priest conducting mass from the Medhane Alem Cathedral.

I arrived just when several babies were being baptised. I felt privileged as a photographer to be able to be present at such an event, and for the priests and the parents to allow me to be there and take pictures.

It was time to discover more of Ethiopia beyond Addis Ababa.

Just a few kilometres out of the city the change in landscape was stark: from glass high-rise buildings to a scene of boys riding on traditionally decorated horses across a prairie.

Travelling through different regions in so populous a country with such a rich cultural heritage, I was fascinated and surprised by the contrasts in landscapes and people.

In Harar, a walled town in the east of the country, you feel transported back in time. With its street markets, countless mosques and churches, the place had a strong atmosphere of ancient commerce when cultures and religions mingled.

It was a world apart from modern Addis Ababa and the town’s Islamic heritage was everywhere to see.

As a photographer, it felt great just to walk through its numerous little streets, talk to people and try to capture the spirit of the place.

I stumbled on a young man who was feeding some eagles by a market that sold camel meat. I stood by one of the main gates of the town, close to another street market and watched as people went about their everyday life.

Apart from the occasional old but well-preserved Peugeot 404, or the numerous automated rickshaws on the streets, it struck me that things might have not looked very different here a few centuries ago.

All the same, change is no stranger to Ethiopia, especially in the capital. I wonder how the country might have altered if I get the chance to come back again a few years from now.