Rising sea levels are forcing Fiji's villagers to relocate. They want polluters to pay instead

Rising sea levels are forcing Fiji's villagers to relocate. They want polluters to pay instead

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Boats moor next to living rooms on Fiji's Serua Island, where water breaches the seawall at high tide, flooding into the village. Planks of wood stretch between some homes, forming a makeshift walkway as saltwater inundates gardens.

Village elders always believed they would die here on prized land where their chiefs are buried.

. Veivatuloa, Fiji. Reuters/Loren Elliott
Seawater floods past an ineffective sea wall into the community of Veivatuloa Village.

But as the community runs out of ways to adapt to the rising Pacific Ocean, the 80 villagers face the painful decision whether to move.

Semisi Madanawa, raising three children who wade through playgrounds, says that given the flooding, erosion and exposure to extreme weather, the village must relocate to Fiji's main island to secure a future for the next generation.

. Serua, Fiji. Reuters/Loren Elliott
Local girl Tokasa Robanakadavu, 10, wades through seawater flooding her community during high tide in Serua Village.

Village elders are resisting, wondering if land reclamation might stop the sea from taking Serua Island's homes and ancestral burial sites, he says.

"It takes time for an idea to settle in the hearts of us human beings so we can accept the changes that are coming," says Madanawa, 38. "Climate change is happening and we need to make a decision."

. Serua, Fiji. Reuters/Loren Elliott
From (L) Local students Jona Togaciri, Talikai Kavu, Semisi Dradra, Tavaga Dradra and Joanna Dradra gather at the edge of a flooded sea wall during high tide, while working on a boat motor in Serua Village.

Serua Island is one of many coastal villages making difficult decisions about their future, seeking government assistance for expensive projects to adapt or move, say Fiji government officials.

Leaders of 15 low-lying Pacific island nations declared climate change their "single greatest existential threat" at a mid-July summit in Fiji's capital, Suva.

. Serua, Fiji. Reuters/Loren Elliott
Local boy Ratukali Madanawa, 8, takes a break from diving in the sea at Serua Village.

Facing some of the most direct effects of climate change, they want developed nations, who contributed the most to global warming, not only to curb their emissions but to pay for the steps that islanders must take to protect their people from rising sea levels. The push has become a key battle at United Nations climate conferences.

Building seawalls, planting mangroves and improving drainage are no longer enough to save villages in many cases, says Shivanal Kumar, a climate-change adaptation specialist in Fiji's economy ministry.

. Veivatuloa, Fiji. Reuters/Loren Elliott
Roemoni Tubivuna and his grandson Roemoni Tubivuna Jr., 10, prepare for a fishing outing at Veivatuloa Village.

"A lot of communities are in genuine crisis, they've been trying to survive," he says. "The impacts of climate change have been felt for many years and there came a time where they gave up and said it's now time to move."

Relocation aims to preserve human rights by protecting people from rising seas, bigger storm surges and more extreme cyclones, Kumar says.

. Serua, Fiji. Reuters/Loren Elliott
Village children pass the time in front of a home next to a flooding sea wall at high tide in Serua Village.

But the funds pledged by developed nations at U.N. climate conferences do not cover relocation, only adaptation, such as building a seawall, officials say.

At last year's global climate conference, called COP26, developed nations agreed only to keep talking about compensation for the unavoidable impacts of climate change, including migration, suffered by vulnerable societies.

. Vunidogoloa, Fiji. Reuters/Loren Elliott
Local residents fish in front of the abandoned site of the old Vunidogoloa Village.

The Pacific leaders at their summit called for developed nations to show meaningful progress at COP27 on a new goal - swift funding for such "loss and damage".

The president of COP26, British politician Alok Sharma, said in Suva on Wednesday he understood the disappointment of Pacific villagers on the front line of climate change.

. Vunidogoloa, Fiji. Reuters/Loren Elliott
Community members gather for a Sunday church service in Vunidogoloa Village.

"You are forced to deal with the consequences of greenhouse gas emissions generated largely by the biggest emitting countries, who are a long way from here. This is not a crisis of your making," he said in a speech.

"We are going to have to find a way of having a substantive discussion on loss and damage at COP27."

. Vunidogoloa, Fiji. Reuters/Loren Elliott
Children get off a school bus as they return home for the day to the new relocated site of Vunidogoloa Village.

Fiji, an archipelago of hundreds of islands some 2,000 km (1,200 miles) north of New Zealand, in 2014 became the first Pacific island nation to relocate a community because of rising sea levels.

Six villages have moved or plan to with government support, but a new process to prioritise the most urgent relocations is still under development.

A further 795 will need to move, says climate youth activist Salote Nasalo, who says she loses sleep thinking about where they can go. Pacific youth will continue protesting against inaction on financing by the big emitters, says Nasolo, a University of South Pacific student.

. Vunidogoloa, Fiji. Reuters/Loren Elliott
The inland relocated site of Vunidogoloa Village.

The first community to relocate was Vunidogoloa, after villagers invited officials to see how they lived with water up to their knees. Saltwater had destroyed the ability of the 150 residents to grow crops, taking away livelihoods and food security, says former village headman Sailosi Ramatu.

In the new village 1.5 km (1 mile) inland on Vanua Levu Island, children now sit outside their homes, dry feet planted firmly on the ground.

Ramatu, 63, says it took time to persuade the elders to move, but the village came together and listened to experts.

"We can also make a decision in the world if the leaders come together," he says. "They should help us, they should pay for our loss and damage."

(Reporting by Kirsty Needham in Suva and Loren Elliott in Serua; Writing by Kirsty Needham; Photo Editing by Gabrielle Fonseca Johnson;Text Editing by William Mallard; Layout by Marta Montana Gomez)

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Slideshow

Seawater floods past an ineffective sea wall into the community of Veivatuloa Village.
. Veivatuloa, Fiji. Reuters/Loren Elliott

Seawater floods past an ineffective sea wall into the community of Veivatuloa Village.

Local resident Selai Uluivuya fishes with a hand-line in an abandoned graveyard flooded by a high tide at Togoru Village.
. Togoru, Fiji. Reuters/Loren Elliott

Local resident Selai Uluivuya fishes with a hand-line in an abandoned graveyard flooded by a high tide at Togoru Village.

Local resident Tarusila Boseiwaqa walks along a sea wall that no longer protects homes from the intrusion of water at higher tides, as a rainbow forms over Serua Village.
. Serua, Fiji. Reuters/Loren Elliott

Local resident Tarusila Boseiwaqa walks along a sea wall that no longer protects homes from the intrusion of water at higher tides, as a rainbow forms over Serua Village.

Local resident Semisi Madanawa, 38, drives his boat from Serua Island to the mainland at high tide, while looking after Monika Betomakita, 11, who joined for the outing, at Serua Village.
. Serua, Fiji. Reuters/Loren Elliott

Local resident Semisi Madanawa, 38, drives his boat from Serua Island to the mainland at high tide, while looking after Monika Betomakita, 11, who joined for the outing, at Serua Village.

Local resident Roemoni Tubivuna and his grandson Roemoni Tubivuna Jr., 10, prepare a fishing net for an outing, as their boat rests against a flooded sea wall no longer effective at preventing water intrusion into their community at high tide, in Veivatuloa Village.
. Veivatuloa, Fiji. Reuters/Loren Elliott

Local resident Roemoni Tubivuna and his grandson Roemoni Tubivuna Jr., 10, prepare a fishing net for an outing, as their boat rests against a flooded sea wall no longer effective at preventing water intrusion into their community at high tide, in Veivatuloa Village.

Local children play along a sea wall that no longer stops the intrusion of water at higher tides in Serua Village.
. Serua, Fiji. Reuters/Loren Elliott

Local children play along a sea wall that no longer stops the intrusion of water at higher tides in Serua Village.

Local boy Ratusela Waqanaceva, 14, wades through seawater flooding over an ineffective sea wall at high tide, as the community experiences flooding in Serua Village.
. Serua, Fiji. Reuters/Loren Elliott

Local boy Ratusela Waqanaceva, 14, wades through seawater flooding over an ineffective sea wall at high tide, as the community experiences flooding in Serua Village.

Locally harvested sea cucumbers cook in a pot in Serua Village.
. Serua, Fiji. Reuters/Loren Elliott

Locally harvested sea cucumbers cook in a pot in Serua Village.

Local resident Adi Latianara (L) and niece Tokasa Robanakadavu, 10, prepare cassava root for eating in Serua Village.
. Serua, Fiji. Reuters/Loren Elliott

Local resident Adi Latianara (L) and niece Tokasa Robanakadavu, 10, prepare cassava root for eating in Serua Village.

Local resident Rapuma Tuqio, 67, looks out at seawater flooding around his home at high tide in Veivatuloa Village.
. Veivatuloa, Fiji. Reuters/Loren Elliott

Local resident Rapuma Tuqio, 67, looks out at seawater flooding around his home at high tide in Veivatuloa Village.

Local resident Roemoni Tubivuna departs for a fishing outing with his grandsons at Veivatuloa Village.
. Veivatuloa, Fiji. Reuters/Loren Elliott

Local resident Roemoni Tubivuna departs for a fishing outing with his grandsons at Veivatuloa Village.

The morning's first rays of sunlight hit the island community of Serua Village.
. Serua, Fiji. Reuters/Loren Elliott

The morning's first rays of sunlight hit the island community of Serua Village.

Semisi Madanawa holds his daughter Aliti Madanawa, 3, during a fishing outing on his boat near Serua Village.
. Serua, Fiji. Reuters/Loren Elliott

Semisi Madanawa holds his daughter Aliti Madanawa, 3, during a fishing outing on his boat near Serua Village.

Local boy Ratukali Madanawa, 8, pulls a fish from a net next to Serua Village.
. Serua, Fiji. Reuters/Loren Elliott

Local boy Ratukali Madanawa, 8, pulls a fish from a net next to Serua Village.

Unaisi Baleisuva (L) sits on the remnants of an old home abandoned to rising seas while fishing with fellow local residents Losalini Matakitoga (C) and Akisi Sukanaca at the former site of Vunidogoloa Village.
. Vunidogoloa, Fiji. Reuters/Loren Elliott

Unaisi Baleisuva (L) sits on the remnants of an old home abandoned to rising seas while fishing with fellow local residents Losalini Matakitoga (C) and Akisi Sukanaca at the former site of Vunidogoloa Village.

Villagers harvest edible seaweed, sea snails and other food sources during low tide next to Serua Village.
. Serua, Fiji. Reuters/Loren Elliott

Villagers harvest edible seaweed, sea snails and other food sources during low tide next to Serua Village.

The moon rises over Serua Village, Fiji.
. Serua, Fiji. Reuters/Loren Elliott

The moon rises over Serua Village, Fiji.

Verina Delasau, 63, moves about inside the home where she lives with family at the edge of the sea, behind a sea wall that no longer protects them from high tides, in Veivatuloa Village, Fiji.
. Veivatuloa, Fiji. Reuters/Loren Elliott

Verina Delasau, 63, moves about inside the home where she lives with family at the edge of the sea, behind a sea wall that no longer protects them from high tides, in Veivatuloa Village, Fiji.

Retired local resident David Tuimalawai (C) prays with fellow community members during a Sunday church service in Vunidogoloa Village, Fiji.
. Vunidogoloa, Fiji. Reuters/Loren Elliott

Retired local resident David Tuimalawai (C) prays with fellow community members during a Sunday church service in Vunidogoloa Village, Fiji.

Local resident Emi Lawai feeds 9-month-old Jo Sorowai, as sister-in-law Naomi Dakai (R), a resort worker, looks after son Micah Dakai, 3, and her friend's daughter Sera Drenauna, 5, at home in the coastal community of Vunaniu Village, Fiji.
. Vunaniu, Fiji. Reuters/Loren Elliott

Local resident Emi Lawai feeds 9-month-old Jo Sorowai, as sister-in-law Naomi Dakai (R), a resort worker, looks after son Micah Dakai, 3, and her friend's daughter Sera Drenauna, 5, at home in the coastal community of Vunaniu Village, Fiji.

The inside of an abandoned home is seen at the former site of Vunidogoloa Village, Fiji.
. Vunidogoloa, Fiji. Reuters/Loren Elliott

The inside of an abandoned home is seen at the former site of Vunidogoloa Village, Fiji.

The inside of an abandoned home is seen at the former site of Vunidogoloa Village, Fiji.
. Vunidogoloa, Fiji. Reuters/Loren Elliott

The inside of an abandoned home is seen at the former site of Vunidogoloa Village, Fiji.

Local resident Tomasi Dioni looks after a bull at the inland relocated site of Vunidogoloa Village, Fiji.
. Vunidogoloa, Fiji. Reuters/Loren Elliott

Local resident Tomasi Dioni looks after a bull at the inland relocated site of Vunidogoloa Village, Fiji.

Local resident Lusiana Suluweti walks the road from the inland relocated village site to the abandoned old village site by the sea to go fishing in Vunidogoloa Village, Fiji.
. Vunidogoloa, Fiji. Reuters/Loren Elliott

Local resident Lusiana Suluweti walks the road from the inland relocated village site to the abandoned old village site by the sea to go fishing in Vunidogoloa Village, Fiji.