Farewell to coal: a Polish city wakes up and smells the blossom

Farewell to coal: a Polish city wakes up and smells the blossom

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When the Wieczorek mine, one of the oldest coal mines in Poland, closed in March, Grzegorz Chudy noticed for the first time the neighbourhood was vibrant with trees in the full bloom of spring. The smell was heady.

. Katowice, POLAND. Reuters/Kacper Pempel
Chudy walks in front of the house where his atelier is located.

"It was incredible. You never knew all those trees were there," he told Reuters in his art studio in a housing estate for mining families in the southwestern Polish city of Katowice.

"The smell wasn't there while coal was being transported on trucks. The dust covered it up."

. Katowice, POLAND. Reuters/Kacper Pempel
The Wieczorek mine power plant chimneys.

The Wieczorek mine in Katowice, with its towering brick shaft, is among dozens closing down throughout Poland, home to one of the most polluted coal mining regions in Europe.

From Sunday, Katowice will host a round of United Nations climate talks, at which nearly 200 countries will attempt to agree rules on how to shift the world economy from fossil fuels to try to curb rising temperatures.

The meeting comes as the World Meteorological Organization warned on Thursday that global temperatures were on course to rise by 3-5 degrees Celsius (5.4-9.0 degrees Fahrenheit) this century, overshooting a global target of limiting the increase to 2C.

. Dabrowa Gornicza, POLAND. Reuters/Kacper Pempel
Katowice Steelworks.

Reaching agreement on how to implement ambitious fossil fuel cuts at the talks could be tough given fears over the impact on industry which have divided the European Union and trade tensions between the United States and China.

Poland has painful experience of the difficulty of an economic transition from coal and even as it counts down to Sunday, it announced plans for a new coal mine in the south of the country.

Its government drew support in part from those with an emotional attachment to the job security, social fabric and national pride associated with mining that overlooked the downside for health and the planet.

. Katowice, POLAND. Reuters/Kacper Pempel
Chudy at his atelier.

The issue resonates especially with older Poles who remember deadly anti-communist protests in the early 1980s when the miners emerged as heroes.

Chudy, 36, whose paintings often depict the life and architecture of Nikiszowiec, is one of hundreds of people who have moved to the area, drawn by its industrial feel and affordable housing.

. Katowice, POLAND. Reuters/Kacper Pempel
Nikiszowiec district.

Built to house the families of miners at the start of the 20th century, Nikiszowiec was designed as a self-sufficient neighbourhood with its own communal bread ovens and pigsties, as well as a bath house for miners and laundry and mangle facilities.

In the years after communist rule ended in Poland in 1989 and the mining sector started to shrink, the area became notorious for crime and poverty.

. Katowice, POLAND. Reuters/Kacper Pempel
Cafe Byfyj.

Such problems have all but disappeared as the area has become gentrified and the bold decision to hold the climate talks in the region could also help to shift opinions.

Those in the artistic community say their work could only exist with the inspiration provided by decades of mining.

. Katowice, POLAND. Reuters/Kacper Pempel
. Katowice, POLAND. Reuters/Kacper Pempel

Left: Depa works with coal at her atelier.
Right: Depa holds a silver ring with coal.

"For me using coal in a different way than it used to be, which was energy, shows its completely new face, so we can call it our new, cool black gold," Katarzyna Depa, who makes jewellery from coal, said.

But for those with mining in the blood, moving on is harder and the smell of coal dust is as sweet as blossom.

. Katowice, POLAND. Reuters/Kacper Pempel
Zawisza at the Wieczorek mine.

Above all they miss the community spirit even if it meant shared danger and hardship.

"The atmosphere used to be much better," miner Krzysztof Zawisza said. "On Friday or Saturday evening people were coming out to sit on the banks, drink some beer, have a barbecue. Now I do not know most of those who have come here."

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Slideshow

Krzysztof Zawisza walks inside the Wieczorek mine.
. Katowice, POLAND. Reuters/Kacper Pempel

Krzysztof Zawisza walks inside the Wieczorek mine.

A poster with words "Daddy, be  careful, as if I was there with you" hangs inside the Wieczorek mine.
. Katowice, POLAND. Reuters/Kacper Pempel

A poster with words "Daddy, be careful, as if I was there with you" hangs inside the Wieczorek mine.

Zawisza brings his daughter Julia, 6,  home from kindergarten.
. Katowice, POLAND. Reuters/Kacper Pempel

Zawisza brings his daughter Julia, 6, home from kindergarten.

Zawisza waits for his daughter Julia at a kindergarten.
. Katowice, POLAND. Reuters/Kacper Pempel

Zawisza waits for his daughter Julia at a kindergarten.

Zawisza kisses his wife Magdalena, 31, as their daughter Zuzanna, 8, plays with a  parrot during a family trip to a parrot garden.
. Katowice, POLAND. Reuters/Kacper Pempel

Zawisza kisses his wife Magdalena, 31, as their daughter Zuzanna, 8, plays with a parrot during a family trip to a parrot garden.

Chudy cooks as his wife Aleksandra, 36, stands by holding their nine-month-old child Kinga.
. Katowice, POLAND. Reuters/Kacper Pempel

Chudy cooks as his wife Aleksandra, 36, stands by holding their nine-month-old child Kinga.

People stand in line at Byfyj bakery in Nikiszowiec district.
. Katowice, POLAND. Reuters/Kacper Pempel

People stand in line at Byfyj bakery in Nikiszowiec district.

Soccer fans light flares and hold a banner as they gather to invite other fans for upcoming football match on main square in Nikiszowiec district.
. Katowice, POLAND. Reuters/Kacper Pempel

Soccer fans light flares and hold a banner as they gather to invite other fans for upcoming football match on main square in Nikiszowiec district.

The entrance of a church in Nikiszowiec district.
. Katowice, POLAND. Reuters/Kacper Pempel

The entrance of a church in Nikiszowiec district.

A married couple have a photo session in Nikiszowiec district.
. Katowice, POLAND. Reuters/Kacper Pempel

A married couple have a photo session in Nikiszowiec district.

A dog plays at a dog park next to houses in Nikiszowiec district.
. Katowice, POLAND. Reuters/Kacper Pempel

A dog plays at a dog park next to houses in Nikiszowiec district.

The Wieczorek mine is seen from nearby forest in Nikiszowiec district.
. Katowice, POLAND. Reuters/Kacper Pempel

The Wieczorek mine is seen from nearby forest in Nikiszowiec district.